Tranquil Waves Convertible Slouch | Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™

Accessories, Advanced Stitches, Basic Stitches, Crochet, Free Patterns, Hats, Stitches No Responses »

Apr 262014

Tranquil Waves Convertible Slouch

Fold brim up for a doubly warm brimmed beanie

After the Tranquil Waves Arm Warmer Teen to Adult (s), Tranquil Waves Underarm Purse, Tranquil Waves Toddler Cloche-like Sun Hat, and the unpublished Tranquil Waves Basket, I felt a calling for a beanie/slouch in this addicting stitch pattern. While we wait for the arm warmers in larger sizes and the toddler leg warmers still in the wing, this convertible beanie/slouch pattern is out to play.

Playing for eons on the type of slouchiness I like, I think I’ve finally found one that didn’t scream Rasta and didn’t scream Smurfette… what do you think?

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links

Add this Pattern to Your Ravelry Queue

Don’t hesitate to visit me on Facebook or send me an e-mail if you have any pattern specific or crochet related questions! The Loungers are fabulously helpful even if I may not have all the answers ♥ With that said, don’t forget to check your gauge and adjust hook sizes until you find one to match the stated gauge especially on fitted items!

Materials

300-350yds Worsted Weight Yarn sample in Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable
The Tranquil Waves Slouch and Arm Warmers in Teen to Adult (s) can be made with 2 skeins of Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable
I-9 (5.5mm), J-10 (6.0mm) or Hook Size to Obtain Gauge
Tapestry Needle
Scissors/Yarn Cutter

Sizing

Hook & FO Sizing
~10″ from Crown to RSC Brim 18.5″ diameter + stretch

Gauge

7 stitches and 8 rounds of ribbing per 2” (5.08cm) - adjust hook size to obtain gauge

Dc height is 0.5″ or 1.27cm

If your gauge is not matching the above within the first 2 to 3 rounds, it’s time to adjust - although it is a must on crochet hats, it is less crucial on arm warmers. This pattern does have a tapered look from decreasing at the Lower Forearm section, so if your Upper Forearm stitching is running long, you may need to start the decrease sooner. As always, it is easier to follow a gauge than to end up with a piece that is not the desirable size on a fitted item.

If your stitching is resulting in a longer round height, you need to adjust your golden loop or drop down in hook size and use the hook that obtains gauge.

Golden Loop - after inserting your hook into an indicated stitch, the Golden Loop is the loop you yarn over and draw up. The height of your row/round depends on how high you draw up the Golden Loop. This matters greatly in gauge matching if you are needing to follow hook size and or have already dropped down in hook size and cannot obtain gauge.

Stitches

Yarn over (yo) – wrap yarn over hook

Chain (ch) – yo, pull through loop on hook

Slip Stitch (slst) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw through stitch and loop on hook

Single crochet (sc) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2

Double Crochet (dc) – yo, insert hook in indicated st (stitch), yo draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2 loops (1 loop on hook)

Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc) - yo, insert hook from front to back to front from the right side around to the left side of the indicated post (Lefties do the opposite from left to right), yo draw up a loop, , yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2

Standing Double Crochet (standing dc)- This stitch replaces the ch3 start so you have a cleaner look on your piece (in fact, the starting stitch will almost be undetectable)

Front Post Double Crochet decrease (FPdc2tog) - yo, insert hook from front to back to front from the right side around to the left side of the indicated post (Lefties do the opposite from left to right), yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2 loops, yo, insert hook from front to back to front from the right side around to the left side of the next indicated post (Lefties do the opposite from left to right), yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2 loops on hook, yo draw through remaining 3 loops on hook

Special Stitches

3 Double Crochet Shell (3dc Shell) - 3dc in indicated stitch

9tr-Fan - 9tr in indicated stitch

V-Stitch (V-st) - (dc, ch1, dc) in indicated stitch

2 Double Crochet V-Stitch (2dc-V-st) - (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in indicated stitch

3 Double Crochet V-Stitch (3dc-V-st) - (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in indicated stitch

4 Double Crochet V-Stitch (4dc-V-st) - (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in indicated stitch

V-st in 3dc-V-st - V-st in ch1 spc of indicated 3dc-V-st

3dc-V-st in 3dc-V-st - (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in ch1 spc of previous round’s 3dc-V-st

3dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st - (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in ch1 spc of previous round’s 2dc-V-st

(Righty) Magic Circle, Invisible Join, Color Change in the Round by The Crochet Lounge™

(Lefty) Magic Circle, Invisible Join, Color Change in the Round by The Crochet Lounge™

Front Post Double Crochet tutorial by Crochet Cabana

Standing Double Crochet tutorial by Moogly

Pattern

Click on the Tabs to access the pattern for each section
<Note: Standing double crochet through out the pattern can be replaced with a starting Ch3 in the round - subsequently any slst join to the top of standing double crochet would be slst join to the top of beginning Ch3. Using beginning standing dc effectively eliminating the need for Ch3 start and makes your crochet work look neater.>

Brim Ribbin

Fsc 72, slst join to first fsc, sew the beginning tail to last fsc
<Note: When using fsc joined in the round, you must also join the beginning tail to the bottom of the last fsc in the round so that the ‘foundation chain’ portion is joined as well as the ‘sc’ portion, which is slst joined to the first fsc.>

Round 1
Ch1, *BPhdc around next post, FPhdc around next post, FPhdc around next post,
Rpt from *, slst to beginning ch1
<Note: The last FPhdc goes around the post where the first and last fsc is joined together. If you do not sew in the beginning tail to the last fsc before starting Row 1, it may look like there are 2 posts remaining.>
[24 BPhdc, 48 FPhdc]

Round 2
<Note: If you find it difficult to start without a ch1, go ahead and make a ch1, otherwise, you can actually go straight into the post stitches>
*BPhdc around BPhdc, FPhdc around FPhdc, FPhdc around FPhdc,
Rpt from *, slst join to beginning BPhdc
[24 BPhdc, 48 FPhdc]

Rounds 3 -8
Repeat Roound 2
[24 BPhdc, 48 FPhdc]

<Note: This creates a close to 2″ or 5cm band>

Body

Round 9:
Standing dc or ch3 start,
*skp 2 sts, 3dc-V-st in next st, skp next 2 sts, dc in next st, ch1, skp next st, dc in next st,
Rpt from * until one st remaining, slst to Standing dc
[9 3dc-V-st, 18 dc, 9 ch1 spc]

Round 10:
Slst around the post of the beginning dc of previous round, standing dc (this acts as the first FPdc),
*3dc-V-st in next 3dc-V-st, FPdc in next dc, ch1, FPdc in next dc
Rpt from * until last dc, FPdc in next dc, ch1, slst join to beginning FPdc
[9 3dc-V-st, 18 FPdc, 9 ch1 spc]

Round 11:
Standing dc, dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join ,
*FPdc around FPdc, V-st in 3dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in ch1 spc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
[9 V-st, 18 FPdc, 9 2dc-V-st]

Round 12:
Standing dc, 2dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join <Note: This is half of a 3dc-V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, ch1, skp V-st, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
[9 3dc-V-st, 18 FPdc, 9 ch1 spc]

Round 13:
Standing dc, 2dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join <Note: This is half of a 3dc-V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, ch1, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc-V-st in 3dc-V-st
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc in same ch1 spc worked as the standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
[9 3dc-V-st, 18 FPdc, 9 ch1 spc]

Round 14:
Standing dc <Note: This is half of a V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in next ch1 spc, FPdc around FPdc, V-st in 3dc-V-st,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
[9 V-st, 18 FPdc, 9 2dc-V-st]

Round 15:
Slst in next FPdc, FPslst around the same FPdc, Standing dc <Note: this will give you a FPdc look at the beginning of your round & counts as first FPdc>,
*3dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, skp V-st, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, slst to beginning standing dc
[9 3dc-V-st, 18 FPdc, 9 ch1 spc]

Round 16:
FPslst around the standing dc of last round, Standing dc (this will give you the FPdc look at the beginning of the round),
*3dc-V-st in 3dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, slst to beginning standing dc
[9 3dc-V-st, 18 FPdc, 9 ch1 spc]

Round 17:
Repeat Round 11

Rounds 18-29-:
Repeat Rounds 12-17

Crown (Decreases in pattern stitch)

Round30:
Standing dc, dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join <Note: This is half of a 2dc-V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, ch1, skp V-st, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst join to standing dc
[9 2dc-V-st, 18 FPdc, 9 ch1 spc]

Round 31:
Standing dc <Note: This is half of a V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, ch1, FPdc around FPdc, V-st in 2dc-V-st,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
[9 V-st, 18FPdc, 9 ch1 spc]

Round 32:
Standing dc <Note: This is half of a V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, V-st in ch1 spc, FPdc around FPdc, V-st in V-st,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
[18 V-st, 18FPdc]

Round 33:
Standing dc,
*FPdc around FPdc, dc in V-st, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from *, slst to standing dc
[18 dc, 18FPdc]

Round 34:
FPslst around next FPdc, standing dc <Note: This counts as a FPdc>, skp next dc,
*FPdc around next FPdc, skp next dc,
Rpt from *, slst to beginning standing dc
[18 FPdc]

Round 35:
<Note: In this round, you are going to FPdc2tog to draw the stitches in, reducing by 9 stitches. The first decrease may read tricky but is just composed of half a standing dc and an FPdc together to form the decrease as any normal dc2tog decreases>
FPslst around FPdc, partial standing dc (only draw through the first 2 loops leaving 2 on hook), partial FPdc around next FPdc, 3 loops on hook, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook to finish the first FPdc2tog,
*FPdc2tog,
Rpt from * 7 more times, slst to standing dc
[9 FPdc2tog]

Round 36:
FPslst around FPdc, Standing dc, *FPdc2tog,
Rpt from * 3 more times, slst to standing dc
[1 Standing dc, 4 FPdc2tog]

Cut yarn
Weave in Ends

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Come share your finished convertible slouch with us because you can inspire someone else with your unique color choices and personal touch! ♥ The Crochet Lounge Fan Page on facebook or The Crochet Lounge G+

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Chunky Jacob’s Ladder Convertible Cowl & Scarf - Free Crochet Pattern

Accessories, Basic Stitches, Cowl, Crochet, Free Patterns, Neckwarmer, Scarf, Stitches 5 Responses »

Dec 132013

Chunky Jacob’s Ladder Convertible Cowl & Scarf

I’ve always been enamored with the looks of the crochet Jacob’s Ladder stitch. You can find some of my Jacob’s Ladder free pattern collection on this Pinterest Board. Short of Clare (Bobwilson123)’s cap tutorial and the beret, I simply don’t have the time to hook up a throw/afghan sized project. It dawned on me a few weeks ago that I simply must make a cowl or a scarf that ladders.

As if that wasn’t enough, my dream topped it off with the idea of a convertible cowl & scarf — now we were talking. While color changing in a Jacob’s Ladder made the stitching pop, I also wanted to try it as a single colored scarf, and a chunky one at that! This Chunky Jacob’s Ladder Convertible Cowl & Scarf pattern was born. The question remained whether it would be a ladders only or also a 2 way scarf.

Stringy and ladders convertible cowls and scarves OH MY!

Needless to say, you’ll be presented with 2 options to finish the scarf and many more if you decide to make it with color change (it is harder with a large hook and double strands, so you may want to take that into consideration before you jump into color changing.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links

Jacob's Ladder Convertible Cowl & Scarf - Free Crochet Pattern Collage | The Crochet Lounge™

♥ ♥

Materials

Worsted Weight yarn - the sample shows the ladder done in Red Heart with Love yarn - you will use roughly 200 yards on 25 rounds or upto 325 yards of the skein depending on the option you choose
Q hook (15mm)

Stitches Used

ch, slst, standing double crochet/chainless start double crochet, double crochet

Chain (ch) - yo (yarn over), pull through loop on hook

Single crochet (sc) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2

Slip Stitch (slst) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw through stitch as well as the loop on hook

Double Crochet (dc) – yo, insert hook in indicated st (stitch), yo draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2 loops (1 loop on hook)

Chainless Starting Double Crochet (Standing dc) - video by Mooglyblog You can replace all ch3 starts of each round with the Standing dc to make the scarf look pretty and seamless!

Gauge

1 stitches and 1.5 rows = 1 inch

Pattern

The Entire Pattern is worked with DOUBLE STRANDS!

Round 1:
Ch 60, slst join to the first chain, make sure you do not twist the chain while joining.

Round 2:
Ch3, dc in next ch, ch10, skp 10 ch,
*dc in next 2 ch, ch10,
Rpt from *, slst join to top of beginning ch3

<Note: You can use a standing double crochet at the beginning of each round and you won’t be able to tell where the start is!>

Round 3: Ch3, dc in next dc, ch10, skp next ch10 space, *dc in next 2 dc, ch10, rpt from *, slst join to top of beginning ch3

Row 4-25 (or 35): Repeat Round 3

Finish off if you want a convertible chain and dc cowl with option of changing it to a Jacob’s Ladder Scarf/Jacob’s Ladder Cowl using a Large Brooch to close off / hold the 5 Jacob’s Ladder loops in place or create a chain or I-Cord as instructed below to do the same.

At 25 rounds, you can see the length of the scarf should you choose to wear it as a scarf and see if you like it. With or without the ladder strung, the scarf is about the same length; others prefer a longer scarf at 35 rounds (shown in photos hanging from the tree branch and worn by my daughter.

Chain or I-Cord to hold the 5 Jacobs Ladder Loops:

You can either make a 120 chain cord to finish off or an I-Cord and string loosely through the 5 Jacobs Ladder

If you would like a pure Jacob’s Ladder Cowl/Scarf, continue with Ladder Only Option:

Ladder Only Option: This will create a permanent Jacob’s Ladder Scarf/Jacob’s Ladder Cowl

String up the Ladder by taking a ch10 spc of foundation chain, twisting it to form a loop then insert your hook into the loop, *yo with the next ch10 one round up, draw through the loop, rpt from * until you get to the top - use a safety pin or stitch marker to hold the loop in place and create the ladder in the other 4 ch10 sections.

Once you are ready to move forward, insert your hook back into the loop where you slst joined round 25

Round 26:
Ch3, dc in next dc, ch4, remove the place holder of the Jacob’s ladder loop, slst into the ladder loop to secure, ch4,
*dc in next 2 dcs, ch4, remove the place holder of the Jacob’s ladder loop, slst inot the ladder loop to secure, ch4,
Rpt from *,
Slst to beginning ch3, cut a 12″ tail, weave in ends (you can split the 2 strands and weave in different directions to secure, or split the yarn if you are using chunky weight).

How to wear your Chunky Jacob’s Ladder Scarf/Cowl:

Without the ladder strung:

1) You can wear it as a loopy scarf
2) You can put your arm through the center of the long tube and slip it over your head as a cowl

With Jacob’s Ladder:

1) You can wear it as a Jacob’s Ladder scarf (other photos in the left collage frame)
2) You can put your arm through the center of the long tube and slip it over your head as a Jacob’s Ladder Cowl (large photo in the right of the collage)

What’s your favorite way of wearing this project? I would love to see photos!


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Pineapple Lace Market Bag - The Summer Elegance Edition

Accessories, Bag, Basic Stitches, Crochet, Free Patterns, On The Go, Stitches 16 Responses »

Jul 162013

The Summer Elegance Edition

Pineapple Lace Market Bag

Pineapple Lace Market Bag | The Summer Elegance Edition | The Crochet Lounge | Free Crochet Sunhat Pattern

I promised a Pineapple Lace blitz and here is the Pineapple Lace Market Bag pattern! If you connect with me on facebook, you would have seen the previews of the lovely Market Bag some of the pattern testers have made.

Did you miss the debut pattern in The Summer Elegance Edition series? It’s the matching Pineapple Lace Sunhat shown in this photo.

Let you in on a little secret… The LESS tails I have to tuck, crochet over and weave, the more EXCITED I am! With that little piece of information in hand, this entire Market Bag pattern including both straps utilizing Option 1 Straps is done in a SINGLE PIECE.

It’s my first bag design pattern and I am absolutely thrilled! Who knew crocheting a bag could be so much fun? Since I rarely carry purses, and carry a mini wrist bag for diapers, a bag of this size was quite exciting to play with.

It’s time to Go Green!

If you shop at the local farmer’s market or at a regular grocery store, this is a fabulous way to show off your hooking talent AND put it to good use. Your finished object will be ever so loved for a long time to come

Ideas for the bag:

Line it with fabric
Use as a medium sized tote for the gym, the pool, the beach, swimming lessons, ball games, actual market going (after all, it IS a market bag), artisan breads, fruits (fit 12 nice sized fuji apples with room for a few more), extra clothing, etc.
YARN TOTE - with the pineapple lace, it is PERFECT to feed project yarn through and run a few colors at the same time
- You can fit two 14oz balls of ww cotton, PLUS 2-3 skeins of 2oz ww cotton stacked on top
- or
- 12-15 skeins of 2-2.5oz ww cotton
As you use up the yarn, your WIP (work in progress) will surely fit neatly into the empty space created if properly rolled/folded.

Don’t hesitate to visit me on Facebook if you have any pattern specific or crochet related questions! The Loungers are fabulously helpful even if I may not have all the answers ♥

Materials

5oz Worsted Weight - Medium #4 (UK Aran, AU 10ply) ~250yds
Photo done in Sugar n Cream/Bernat Handicrafter Cotton/Peaches and Creme - can use Lion Brand Lion Cotton or Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton
- <Note: Caron Simply Soft is thinner than regular worsted weight even though it is marked as ww>
I-9 (5.5mm) Hook or Hook Size to Obtain Gauge (While gauge is provided on this piece, it doesn’t really matter because it is not a fitted garment or accessory)
Tapestry Needle

Sizing

One Size

Gauge

2” after first 2 rounds - not a big concern since it is a market bag

Stitches (sts) & Abbreviations

Magic Circle The Crochet Lounge Way - wrap yarn around finger twice clockwise onto your finger on the left hand (counter-clockwise on the right-hand for the lefties), insert hook into the center of the circle, yo draw up a loop ch1 tightly to close.

Yarn over (yo) – wrap yarn over hook

Chain (ch) – yo, pull through loop on hook

Foundation single crochet (fsc) – ch2, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)
*insert hook into the foundation chain just created, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1, yo draw through 2
Repeat from * until total fsc completed

Slip Stitch (slst) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw through stitch and loop on hook

Single crochet (sc) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2

Half double crochet (hdc) - yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook

Back Post hdc (BPhdc) – yo, insert hook from back to front to back from the right side around to the left side of the indicated post (Lefties do the opposite from left to right), yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook

BPhdc 2 together (BPhdc2tog) - yo insert hook from behind the work around the post from right to left, yo draw up a loop, yo insert hook from behind the work around the next post from right to left, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 5 loops

Puff stitch - (yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop) 4 times, yo draw through all loops on hook

Modified puff stitch - (yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop) 4 times, yo draw through 8 loops on hook [leaving 2 on hook], yo draw through 2 loops

Puff shell – (puff stitch, ch1, puff stitch) in the indicated stitch

Modified puff shell – (puff stitch, ch1, modified puff stitch) in the indicated stitch

Special Stitches Defined:

3dc Shell - 3dc in indicated stitch

V-Shell – (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in indicated stitch

5dc-Fan – 5dc in indicated stitch

6dc-Fan - 6dc in indicated stitch

5dc-Fan in V-Shell – 5dc in ch1 spc of indicated V-Shell

V-Shell in V-Shell – V-Shell in ch1 spc of indicated V-Shell

6dc-Fan in 5dc-Fan – 6dc-Fan in center dc of 5dc-Fan of previous round

Modified Foundation single crochet (mfsc) – insert hook into indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)
*insert hook into the foundation chain just created, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1, yo draw through 2
Repeat from * until total # mfsc completed

Invisible sc Join The Crochet Lounge Way – in the last stitch of the round, insert hook into the last stitch, draw up a loop, insert hook into the back loop only (blo) of the first stitch in the round, yo, draw up and through the loops on hook, leave a 6” tail, cut the yarn. Insert hook through both loops of the second stitch of the round, yo with tail draw yarn through. Insert hook into the front loop only (flo) of the last stitch of the round, draw tail through. From wrong side of piece, insert hook through the same last stitch in the round under both loops, draw tail to the inside and fasten off.

Pineapple Lace Market Bag & Sunhat Set | The Summer Elegance Edition | The Crochet Lounge | Free Crochet Pattern

The entire market bag including Option 1 straps and slst finish around the rim and straps is worked as a SINGLE PIECE - do not break yarn between sections of the bag. If you are working Option 2 permanent strap, then break yarn where suggested.

Magic Circle
Round 1
12dc into the Magic Circle
[12dc]

Round 2
Ch2, 2dc in each dc around, slst join to the first dc of the round
[24dc]

Round 3
Ch2, 3dc in same st, skp next dc,
*3dc in next dc, skp next dc,
Rpt from * 10 times,
Slst join to the first dc of the round
[36dc or 12 3dc-shell]

Round 4
Slst in next st , ch2, V-Shell in same spc
*V-Shell in center of next 3dc-shell,
Rpt from * 10 times,
Slst join to the first dc of the round
[12ch1 spc + 48dc or 12 V-Shell]

Round 5
Slst in next 2 st (to ch1 spc of V-shell), ch2, 5dc in same spc,
*5dc-fan in next V-Shell,
Rpt from * 10 times,
Slst join to the first dc of the round
[12 5dc-fan or 60dc]

Round 6
Slst in next 2 st (to center of 5dc-fan), ch2, 6dc-fan in same dc
*6dc-fan in next 5dc-fan of Round 5,
Rpt from * 10 times,
Slst join to the first dc of the round
[12 6dc-fan or 72dc]

Round 7
Ch2, dc in each dc around, slst join to the first dc of the round
[72dc]

Round 8
Ch2, V-Shell in same spc,
Ch2, skp 3dc, dc in next dc,
Ch2, skp 3dc, V-Shell in next dc,
Ch2, skp 3dc, (sc in next dc, ch5, skp next dc) 4 times, sc in next dc,
Ch2,
*Skp 3dc, V-Shell in the next dc,
Ch2, skp 3dc, dc in next dc,
Ch2, skp 3dc, V-Shell in next dc,
Ch2, skp 3dc, (sc in next dc, ch5, skp next dc) 4 times, sc in next dc,
Ch2,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to the first dc of the round
[Total 3 sets repeated]

Round 9
Slst in next 2 st (to ch1 spc of V-Shell), ch2, V-Shell in same spc,
Ch2, 3dc in next dc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (sc in next ch5 spc, ch5) 3 times, sc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2,
*V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, 3dc in next dc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (sc in next ch5 spc, ch5) 3 times, sc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2,
Rpt from *
Slst join to the first dc of the round
[Total 3 sets repeated]

Round 10
Slst in next 2 st (to ch1 spc of V-Shell),
Ch2, V-Shell in same spc,
Ch2, (2dc in next dc) 3 times,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (sc in next ch5 spc, ch5) 2 times, sc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2,
*V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (2dc in next dc) 3 times,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (sc in next ch5 spc, ch5) 2 times, sc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to the first dc of the round

Round 11
Slst in next 2 st (to ch1 spc of V-Shell),
Ch2, V-Shell in same spc,
Ch2, (dc in next dc, ch1) 5 times, dc in next dc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, sc in next ch5 spc, ch5, sc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2,
*V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (dc in next dc, ch1) 5 times, dc in next dc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, sc in next ch5 spc, ch5, sc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to the first dc of the round

Round 12
Slst in next 2 st (to ch1 spc of V-Shell),
Ch2, V-Shell in same spc,
Ch2, (sc in next ch1 spc, ch5) 4 times, sc in next ch1 spc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, dc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2,
*V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (sc in next ch1 spc, ch5) 4 times, sc in next ch1 spc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, dc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to the first dc of the round

Round 13
Slst in next 2 st (to ch1 spc of V-Shell),
Ch2, V-Shell in same V-Shell,
Ch2, (sc in next ch5 spc, ch5) 3 times, sc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, 3dc in next dc, ch2,
*V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (sc in next ch5 spc, ch5) 3 times, sc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, 3dc in next dc,
Ch2,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to the first dc of the round

Round 14
Slst in next 2 st (to ch1 spc of V-Shell),
Ch2, V-Shell in same spc,
Ch2, (sc in next ch5 spc, ch5) 2 times, sc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (2dc in next dc) 3 times,
Ch2,
*V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (sc in next ch5 spc, ch5) 2 times, sc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (2dc in next dc) 3 times,
Ch2,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to the first dc of the round

Round 15
Slst in next 2 st (to ch1 spc of V-Shell),
Ch2, V-Shell in same spc,
Ch2, sc in next ch5 spc, ch5, sc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (dc in next dc, ch1) 5 times, dc in next dc,
Ch2,
*V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, sc in next ch5 spc, ch5, sc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (dc in next dc, ch1) 5 times, dc in next dc,
Ch2,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to the first dc of the round

Round 16
Ch2, V-Shell in same spc,
Ch2, dc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc, ch5) 4 times, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc,
Ch2,
*V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, dc in next ch5 spc,
Ch2, V-Shell in V-Shell,
Ch2, (skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc, ch5) 4 times, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc,
Ch2,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to the first dc of the round
[total 3 sets repeated]

Rounds 17-23
Repeat Rounds 9-15
Do Not Break Yarn

Pineapple Lace Market Bag & Sunhat Set | The Summer Elegance Edition | The Crochet Lounge | Free Crochet Pattern

Bag Rim
Round 24
Ch1, hdc in same spc, sc in next dc, sc in ch1 spc, sc in next dc, hdc in last dc of V-Shell,
Ch2, hdc in ch5 spc,
Ch2, hdc in first dc, sc in next dc, sc in ch1 spc, sc in next dc, hdc in last dc of V-Shell,
Ch2, (skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc, ch1) 4 times, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc,
Ch2,
* hdc in first dc, sc in next dc, sc in ch1 spc, sc in next dc, hdc in last dc of V-Shell,
Ch2, hdc in ch5 spc,
Ch2, hdc in first dc, sc in next dc, Sc in ch1 spc, sc in next dc, hdc in last dc of V-Shell,
Ch2, (skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc, ch1) 4 times, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc,
Ch2,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to the first hdc of the round
[15hdc, 33sc, 12 ch1 spc, 12 ch2 spc]

Round 25
Ch1, sc in same spc, (sc in next sc) 3 times, sc in next hdc,
2sc in ch2 spc, sc in next hdc,
2sc in ch2 spc, sc in next hdc, (sc in next sc) 3 times, sc in next hdc,
2sc in ch2 spc, (sc in next sc, ch1) 5 times,
2sc in ch2 spc,
*sc in next hdc, (sc in next sc) 3 times, sc in next hdc,
2sc in ch2 spc, sc in next hdc,
2sc in ch2 spc, sc in next hdc, (sc in next sc) 3 times, sc in next hdc,
2sc in ch2 spc, (sc in next sc, ch1) 5 times,
2sc in ch2 spc,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to the first sc of the round
[72sc, 15 ch1 spc]

Rounds 26-29
Ch1, sc in each sc and sc in each ch1 spc around, slst join to the beginning sc
[87sc]

Bag Straps
Gauge
4sc or 4 rows to an inch - gauge pattern fsc 16, ch1, turn, sc in each sc across, repeat for 6 rows. (Gauge does not really matter in the straps, it is just used as a guide).

New Stitch for this section mfsc

Bag Straps Option 1 (shown in photo):
The Bag Straps are created with two strips on opposing sides of the bag and can be tied off depending on the length of the strap needed, thus creating an adjustable strap.

Continue along the rim:
Slst in the next 5 sts

Row 1
mfsc 50 starting in the same stitch as the last slst

Row 2
Ch1, turn (to be sure, you can follow the fsc down to make sure it is not twisted and that you will be working along the side that doubles back over the 5slst on the rim), sc in each sc across,
Slst join to the same st on the rim where you started the fsc,
Slst join to the next st on the rim
[50sc]

Row 3
Turn (without ch1, you are just going to turn the bag counter-clockwise for a righty and clockwise for a lefty. The yarn you crochet with will cross over in front, and that’s correct),
Do not chain,
Sc into each sc across, 2sc at the end of the row
[51sc]

Row 4
Ch1, turn
Sc in each sc across,
Slst to the same st on the rim where Row 2 started,
Slst to the next st on the rim
[51sc]

Rows 5-10
Repeat Row 2 & 3
[Rows 5-6 52sc
Rows 7-8 53sc
Rows 9-10 54sc]

Rim Continuation
Turn, Slst back up the strap you just formed
[54slst]
At the corner, sc in the same st as the last slst, sc across the short side of the strap
[10sc]
Slst in the same st as the last sc in the corner, slst down the other side of the strap
[50slst]
Slst in the next 44st
[34slst]

Strap 2
Row 1
mfsc 65 starting in the same stitch as the last slst

Row 2
Ch1, turn (to be sure, you can follow the fsc down to make sure it is not twisted and that you will be working along the side that doubles back over the last 10slst on the rim), sc in each sc across,
Slst join to the same st on the rim where you started the fsc,
Slst join to the next st on the rim
[65sc]

Row 4
Ch1, turn
Sc in each sc across,
Slst to the same st on the rim where Row 2 started,
Slst to the next st on the rim
[66sc]

Rows 5-10
Repeat Row 2 & 3
[Rows 5-6 67sc
Rows 7-8 68sc
Rows 9-10 69sc]

Rim Completion
Turn, Slst back up the strap you just formed
[69slst]
At the corner, sc in the same st as the last slst, sc across the short side of the strap
[10sc]
Slst in the same st as the last sc in the corner, slst down the other side of the strap
[65slst]
Slst in the next 33st along the rim,
Invisible join to the bottom of the first strap.
[33slst]

Fasten Off

Weave in Ends

Bag Straps Option 2:
A permanent Bag Strap is created crocheting from one side to the opposing side of the bag as a single piece of fabric attached to both sides and cannot be adjusted after completion.

If you followed the strap gauging, then you can use the following numbers to determine how long you want your bag straps:
At 4st/in,
15” Strap = 60fsc
16” Strap = 64fsc
17” Strap = 68fsc
18” Strap = 72fsc
19” Strap = 76fsc
20” Strap = 80fsc

Slst in the next 5 sts, fsc (number you desire) starting in the same stitch as the last slst, keeping the fsc straight, count 34st along the rim continuing down the same direction as the 5 slst you have already made,
Slst into the 35th stitch,
Slst into the next stitch, turn,
Sc in each fsc,
*Slst to the last stitch worked on the rim,
Slst in the next st on the rim, turn,
Sc across
Repeat from * until you have a total of 10 rows including fsc,
Slst around the rim and over the strap, fasten off.
Attach yarn on the other side of the strap,
Slst around the rim and strap, fasten off.

Weave in Ends

Ravel This!

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Pattern, photos, and post copyright Yi-An “e” Lee, The Crochet Lounge 2013. Please do not reproduce this pattern, instead, link this page to share with others.