Mariposas Angels Lace Beanie

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When the Mariposas Beanie was created, I knew I would create a top down version simply because hats from the top-down are my love and favorite. It hasn’t proven to be congruent with my hat pattern writing because the stitch pattern I want to create happens to be bottom up With the Mariposas series, though, there is huge potential in both directions as you can see in the boot cuffs, wrist cuffs and (the unseen bolero), so I knew this free crochet pattern was going to be born at a later date.

While the Mariposas Boot Cuffs pattern was in testing, I already knew the series was going to include a scarf, infinity scarf, cowl, Mariposas Beanie, Mariposas Wrist Cuffs as well as a potential shawl, poncho, and lacy baby blanket, throw, afghan sizes. It’s just a matter of WHICH pattern came next — but you all know this well, many a WIPs, right? The latest scarf prototype being worked up seems to float my boat, so if the embellishments pan out, that shall come next in this series.

This all stemmed from the Mariposas Bolero pattern back in August that has yet to be fully tested and released — the bolero is sized XS - 5XL. If you feel so inclined to make a matching bolero, please contact me via facebook or e-mail [email protected]

Materials

• Worsted Weight yarn - Featured in Red Heart With Love
• Size J hook
• Solid colors really show off the stitch - also great for slow variegated yarns if you want the stitch pronounced

Gauge

8 Stitches & 6 Rows of FPhdc, BPhdc = 2 inches
Height of dc - 3/4″ or 1.905cm
Height of tr - 1″ or 2.54cm
<Note: It is important that gauge be matched on a fitted item such as a beanie! Watch your Golden Loop>

Golden Loop - after inserting your hook into an indicated stitch, the Golden Loop is the loop you yarn over and draw up. The height of your row/round depends on how high you draw up the Golden Loop. This matters greatly in gauge matching if you are needing to follow hook size and or have already dropped down in hook size and cannot obtain gauge.

If your golden loop is much longer, you will simply end up with a slouch hat, and you can fold up the brim for a 2-in-1 beanie/slouch. If you work it up as a beanie, it can fit an 18mo toddler if brim is folded up, or an adult with the beanie as is.

Stitches Used

fsc, ch, sc, slst, dc, tr, V-st, 3dc-Fan, 7dc-Fan, 9tr-Fan

Foundation single crochet (fsc) – ch2, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)
*insert hook into the next foundation chain just created, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1, yo draw through 2
Repeat from * until total fsc completed

Yarn over (yo) – wrap yarn over hook

Chain (ch) - yo (yarn over), pull through loop on hook

Single crochet (sc) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2

Single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, insert hook in next stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 3 loops on hook

Slip Stitch (slst) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw through stitch as well as the loop on hook

Half double crochet (hdc) - yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook

Front Post hdc (FPhdc) - yo, insert hook from front to back to front from the right side around to the left side of the indicated post (Lefties do the opposite from left to right), yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook

Back Post hdc (BPhdc) – yo, insert hook from back to front to back from the right side around to the left side of the indicated post (Lefties do the opposite from left to right), yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook

Double Crochet (dc) – yo, insert hook in indicated st (stitch), yo draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2 loops (1 loop on hook)

Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog) – yo, insert hook in first indicated st (stitch), yo draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops, yo insert hook in second indicated st, yo draw up a loop(4loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo draw through remaining 3 loops on hook <Note: You are basically doing half of a dc in the first stitch, then half of a dc in the next stitch before finishing the two dc at the same time in the last yo draw through remaining loops on hook>

Special Stitches

Magic Circle The Crochet Lounge™ way -

Chainless Starting Double Crochet (Standing dc) -

V-Stitch (V-st) - (dc, ch2, dc) in indicated stitch

V1-Stitch (V1-st) - (dc, ch1, dc) in indicated stitch <Note: This is used in rounds 12 to 15>

3dc-Fan - 3dc in indicated stitch

7dc-Fan - 7dc in indicated stitch

9tr-Fan - 9tr in indicated stitch

V-St in V-St - V-St in next V-St

V1-St in V1-St - V1-St in next V1-St

V-st in 3dc-Fan - V-st in middle dc of 3dc-Fan

V1-st in 7dc-Fan - V1-st in 4th dc of 7dc-Fan (center dc of the 7dc-Fan)

7dc-Fan in V-st - 7dc in ch2 spc of indicated V-st

9tr-Fan in V-st - 9tr in ch2 spc of indicated V-st

V-st in 9tr-Fan - V-st in 5th tr of 9tr-Fan (center tr of the 9tr-Fan)

Invisible sc Join The Crochet Lounge™ Way – in the last stitch of the round, insert hook into the last stitch, draw up a loop, insert hook into the back loop only (blo) of the first stitch in the round, yo, draw up and through the loops on hook, leave a 6” tail, cut the yarn. Insert hook through both loops of the second stitch of the round, yo with tail draw yarn through. Insert hook into the front loop only (flo) of the last stitch of the round, draw tail through. From wrong side of piece, insert hook through the same last stitch in the round under both loops, draw tail to the inside and fasten off

Pattern

Magic Circle
<Note: You can replace the magic circle with ch4 slst to 4th ch from hook to join. This generally creates a larger gap/hole in the center.>

Round 1
Standing double crochet (or ch3), ch1, *dc in magic circle, ch1,
Rpt from * 5 more times, slst join to standing double crochet (or third ch of beginning ch3)
[7 dc, 7 ch1 spc]
<Note: The standing double crochet gives a cleaner look and eliminates being able to see the start of the rounds.>

Round 2
Standing double crochet (or ch3), ch1, *V1-St in next ch1 spc, ch1
Rpt from * 5 more times, dc in next ch1 spc, ch1, slst join to standing double crochet (or third ch of beginning ch3)
[7 V1-st, 7 ch1 spc between V1-st]

Round 3

Standing dc (or ch3), ch1, *2dc in next ch1 spc, ch1,
Rpt from * 12 more times, dc in next ch1 spc, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
[14 2dc-sets]
<Note: Standing dc at the beginning of the round counts as the second dc in one of the 14 2dc-sets>

Round 4
Standing dc (or ch3), 3dc in spc between next 2dc-set, *V1-st in spc between next 2dc-set, 3dc in spc between next 2dc set
Rpt from * 5 more times, dc in next ch1 spc, ch1, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: All stitches in this round is worked in the space between each of the 2dc-sets (between the posts). Ending dc, ch1, slst to Standing dc counts as a V1-st>
[7 V1-st, 7 3dc-Fan]

Round 5
Standing dc (or ch3), ch1, V-st in 3dc-Fan, ch1, *V-st in V1-st, ch1, V-st in 3dc-Fan, ch1,
Rpt from * 5 more times, dc in next V1-st, ch2, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: We have switched to regular V-st in this round. Are you paying attention? At this point, you can still press the circle flat, but it may have a very slight curve and that’s okay. last dc, ch2, slst to standing dc counts as a V-st>
[14 V-st]

Round 6
Slst to the ch2 spc of the next V-st, standing dc (or ch3), 6dc in same ch2 spc, V-st in next V-st, *7dc in next V-st, V-st in next V-st,
Rpt from * 5 more times, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: Standing dc, 6dc in same ch2 spc at the beginning of the round counts as the first 7dc-Fan.>
[7 V-st, 7 7dc-Fan]

Round 7
Slst in next 3 dc, standing dc (or ch3), ch2, dc in same dc, ch2, V-st in next V-st, *V-st in next 7dc-Fan, V-st in next V-st,
Rpt from * 5 more times, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: Beginning of the round starts in the center of 7dc-Fan of previous round and Standing dc, ch2, dc in same st start counts as the first V-st.>
[14 V-st]

Round 8
Slst into ch2 spc, standing dc(or ch3), ch2, dc in same ch2 spc, 9tr in next V-st, * V-st in V-st, 9tr-Fan in next V-st,
Rpt from *5 more times, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: Standing dc, ch2, dc in same ch2 spc at the beginning of the round counts as the first V-st>
[7 V-st, 7 9tr-Fan]

Round 9
Slst into ch2 spc, standing dc (or ch3), ch2, dc in same ch2 spc, ch2, V-st in next 9tr-Fan, *V-st in V-st, V-st in next 9tr-Fan,
Rpt from * 5 more times, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: Standing dc, ch2, dc in same st start counts as the first V-st>
[14 V-st]

Round 10
Slst into ch2 spc, ch4, 8tr in same ch2 spc, V-st in V-st, *9tr-Fan in next V-st, V-st in V-st,
Rpt from * 5 more times, slst join to 4th ch of beginning ch4
<Note: ch4 at beginning of the round counts as the first tr in 9tr-Fan>
[7 V-st, 7 9tr-Fan]

Round 11
Slst in next 4st to center of 9tr-Fan, standing dc (or ch3), ch2, dc in same tr, ch2, V-st in V-st, *V-st in 9tr-Fan, V-st in V-st,
Rpt from * 5 more times, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: Standing dc, ch2, dc in same tr at beginning of round counts as V-st.>
[14 V-st]

Round 12
Slst into ch2 spc of V-st, ch1, 2sc in same ch2 spc, 3sc in next ch2 spc, *2sc in V-st, 3sc in next ch2 spc,
Rpt from * 12 more times, slst to beginning sc
<Note: >
[70 sc]

Round 13
Ch1, *BPhdc in first 2 sc posts, FPhdc in next 3 sc posts,
Rpt from * 13 more times, slst join to beginning BPhdc
<Note: You are working 2BPhdc in each V-st section and 3FPhdc in the space between the V-st from Round 11.>
[28 BPhdc, 42FPhdc]

Round 14
Ch1, BPhdc in each BPhdc, FPhdc in each FPhdc throughout the round, slst join to beginning BPhdc
<Note: You are crocheting same stitch type into the same stitch from Round 13>
[28 BPhdc, 42FPhdc]

Round 15
Ch1, FPhdc in each BPhdc, BPhdc in each FPhdc throughout the round, slst join to beginning FPhdc
<Note: You are now creating the basket weave look by crocheting the opposite post stitch as the previous round>
[42 BPhdc, 28FPhdc]

Round 16
Ch1, FPhdc in each FPhdc, BPhdc in each BPhdc throughout the round, slst join to beginning FPhdc
<Note: You are crocheting same stitch type into the same stitch from Round 15>
[42 BPhdc, 28FPhdc]

Round 17
Ch1, BPhdc in each FPhdc, FPhdc in each BPhdc throughout the round, slst join to beginning BPhdc
<Note: You are switching to the opposite post stitch in this round to finish the last set of basket weave>
[28 BPhdc, 42FPhdc]

Round 18
Rpt Round 14
<Note: You are crocheting same stitch type into the same stitch from Round 17>
[28 BPhdc, 42FPhdc]

Weave in ends

I have seen some fantastic surface slip stitch work done at the brim portion highlighting the brim section — it can completely change your beanie style if you change the color of the brim and then frame it. Try it, have a blast and come share with us what you’ve made

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Ravelry Link to come soon: