Apr 192014
 

Tranquil Waves Arm Warmer

Teen - Adult (S)

Have you seen the Tranquil Waves Underarm Purse, Tranquil Waves Toddler Cloche-like Sun Hat, or the Tranquil Waves Basket?  There simply can't be enough Tranquil Waves patterns, so we'll be hooking up the Arm Warmers in larger sizes soon as well as the toddler leg warmers and adult slouch hat!

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Tranquil Waves Arm Warmer | Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™

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Materials

  • 300-350yds Worsted Weight Yarn sample in Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable
    The Tranquil Waves Slouch and Arm Warmers in Teen to Adult (s) can be made with 2 skeins of Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable
  • H-8 (5mm), I-9 (5.5mm), J-10 (6.0mm) or Hook Size to Obtain Gauge
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Scissors/Yarn Cutter

Sizing

Hook & FO Sizing
~8" from Crown to RSC Brim 18.5" diameter + stretch

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Gauge

2” (5.08cm) after first 2 rounds - adjust hook size to obtain gauge

Dc height is 0.5" or 1.27cm

If your gauge is not matching the above within the first 2 to 3 rounds, it’s time to adjust - although it is a must on crochet hats, it is less crucial on arm warmers.  This pattern does have a tapered look from decreasing at the Lower Forearm section, so if your Upper Forearm stitching is running long, you may need to start the decrease sooner.  As always, it is easier to follow a gauge than to end up with a piece that is not the desirable size on a fitted item.

If your stitching is resulting in a longer round height, you need to adjust your golden loop or drop down in hook size and use the hook that obtains gauge.

Golden Loop - after inserting your hook into an indicated stitch, the Golden Loop is the loop you yarn over and draw up.  The height of your row/round depends on how high you draw up the Golden Loop.  This matters greatly in gauge matching if you are needing to follow hook size and or have already dropped down in hook size and cannot obtain gauge.

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Stitches

Yarn over (yo) – wrap yarn over hook

Chain (ch) – yo, pull through loop on hook

Slip Stitch (slst) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw through stitch and loop on hook

Single crochet (sc) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2

Double Crochet (dc) – yo, insert hook in indicated st (stitch), yo draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2 loops (1 loop on hook)

Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc) - yo, insert hook from front to back to front from the right side around to the left side of the indicated post (Lefties do the opposite from left to right), yo draw up a loop, , yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2

Standing Double Crochet (standing dc)-  This stitch replaces the ch3 start so you have a cleaner look on your piece (in fact, the starting stitch will almost be undetectable)

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Special Stitches

3 Double Crochet Shell (3dc Shell) - 3dc in indicated stitch

9tr-Fan  - 9tr in indicated stitch

 V-Stitch (V-st) - (dc, ch1, dc) in indicated stitch

2 Double Crochet V-Stitch (2dc-V-st) (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in indicated stitch

3 Double Crochet V-Stitch (3dc-V-st) - (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in indicated stitch

4 Double Crochet V-Stitch (4dc-V-st) - (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in indicated stitch

V-st in 3dc-V-st V-st in ch1 spc of indicated 3dc-V-st

3dc-V-st in 3dc-V-st  - (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in ch1 spc of previous round's 3dc-V-st

3dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st  - (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in ch1 spc of previous round's 2dc-V-st

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(Righty) Magic Circle, Invisible Join, Color Change in the Round by The Crochet Lounge™ 

(Lefty) Magic Circle, Invisible Join, Color Change in the Round by The Crochet Lounge™ 

Video Stitch Tutorials

Front Post Double Crochet tutorial by Crochet Cabana

Standing Double Crochet tutorial by Moogly

Reverse Single Crochet / Crab Stitch tutorial by Crochet Geek

Pattern

Click on the Tabs to access the pattern for each section
<Note: Standing double crochet through out the pattern can be replaced with a starting Ch3 in the round - subsequently any slst join to the top of standing double crochet would be slst join to the top of beginning Ch3.  Using beginning standing dc effectively eliminating the need for Ch3 start and makes your crochet work look neater.>

Upper Arm Ribbing

Fsc 40, slst join to first fsc, sew the beginning tail to last fsc
<Note: When using fsc joined in the round, you must also join the beginning tail to the bottom of the last fsc in the round so that the 'foundation chain' portion is joined as well as the 'sc' portion, which is slst joined to the first fsc.>

Round 1
Ch1, *BPhdc around next post, FPhdc around next post,
Rpt from *, slst to beginning ch1
<Note: The last FPhdc goes around the post where the first and last fsc is joined together.  If you do not sew in the beginning tail to the last fsc before starting Row 1, it may look like there are 2 posts remaining.>
[20 BPhdc, 20 FPhdc]

Round 2
<Note: If you find it difficult to start without a ch1, go ahead and make a ch1, otherwise, you can actually go straight into the post stitches>
*BPhdc around BPhdc, FPhdc around FPhdc
Rpt from *, slst join to beginning BPhdc
[20 BPhdc, 20 FPhdc]

Rounds 3 -5
Repeat Roound 2
[20 BPhdc, 20 FPhdc]

Upper Forearm

Round 6:
Standing dc or ch3 start,
*skp 3 dc, 3dc-V-st in next dc, skp 3 dc, dc in next dc, ch1, skp next dc, dc in next dc
Rpt from * until one dc remaining, slst to Standing dc
[4 3dc-V-st, 8 dc, 4 ch1 spc]

Round 7:
Slst around the post of the beginning dc of previous round, standing dc (this acts as the first FPdc),
*3dc-V-st in next 3dc-V-st, FPdc in next dc, ch1, FPdc in next dc
Rpt from * until last dc, FPdc in next dc, ch1, slst join to beginning FPdc
[4 3dc-V-st, 8 FPdc, 4 ch1 spc]

Round 8:
Standing dc, dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join ,
*FPdc around FPdc, V-st in 3dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in ch1 spc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
[4 V-st, 4 2dc-V-st, 8 FPdc]

Round 9:
Standing dc, 2dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join <Note: This is half of a 3dc-V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, ch1, skp V-st, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
[4 3dc-V-st, 8 FPdc, 4 ch1 spc]

Round 10:
Standing dc, 2dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join <Note: This is half of a 3dc-V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, ch1, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc-V-st in 3dc-V-st
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc in same ch1 spc worked as the standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
[4 3dc-V-st, 8 FPdc, 4 ch1 spc]

Round 11:
Standing dc <Note: This is half of a V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in next ch1 spc, FPdc around FPdc, V-st in 3dc-V-st,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
[4 V-st, 8FPdc, 4 2dc-V-st]

Round 12:
Slst in next FPdc, FPslst around the same FPdc, Standing dc <Note: this will give you a FPdc look at the beginning of your round & counts as first FPdc>,
*3dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, skp V-st, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, slst to beginning standing dc
[4 3dc-V-st, 4 ch1 spc]

Round 13:
FPslst around the standing dc of last round, Standing dc (this will give you the FPdc look at the beginning of the round),
*3dc-V-st in 3dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, slst to beginning standing dc
[4 3dc-V-st, 8FPdc, 4 ch1 spc]

Round 14:
Repeat Round 10

Rounds 15-20:
Repeat Rounds 9-14

Lower Forearm (Decreases in pattern stitch)

Round 21:Tranquil Waves Arm Warmer Close Up | Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™
Standing dc, dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join <Note: This is half of a 2dc-V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, ch1, skp V-st, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst join to standing dc
[4 2dc-V-st, 8 FPdc, 4 ch1 spc]

Round 22:
Standing dc, dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join <Note: This is half of a 2dc-V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, ch1, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst join to standing dc
[4 2dc-V-st, 8 FPdc, 4 ch1 spc]

Round 23:
Standing dc <Note: This is half of a V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in next ch1 spc, FPdc around FPdc, V-st in 2dc-V-st,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
[4 V-st, 8FPdc, 4 2dc-V-st]

Round 24:
Slst in next FPdc, FPslst around the same FPdc, Standing dc,
*2dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, skp V-st, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, slst to beginning standing dc
[4 2dc-V-st, 8FPdc, 4 ch1 spc]

Round 25:
FPslst around the standing dc of last round, Standing dc (this will give you the FPdc look at the beginning of the round),
*2dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, slst to beginning standing dc
[4 2dc-V-st, 8FPdc, 4 ch1 spc]

Round 26:
Standing dc, dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join <Note: This is half of a 2dc-V-st>,
*FPdc around FPdc, V-st in 2dc-V-st,FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in ch1 spc
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc in same ch1 spc worked as the standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc
[4 2dc-V-st, 8 FPdc, 4 ch1 spc]

Rounds 27-32:
Repeat Rounds 21-26

Rounds 33-35:
Repeat Rounds 21-23

Round 36 (thumb hole):
Slst in next FPdc, FPslst around the same FPdc, Standing tr or ch4
<Note: This is the beginning FPtr of the round and is the thumb hole area>,
*2dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, skp V-st, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPtr around FPdc, ch5, slst to beginning standing dc
[4 2dc-V-st, 6 FPdc, 2 FPtr, 3 ch1 spc, 1 ch5 spc]

Round 37:
FPslst around the standing tr or ch4 of last round, Standing dc,
*2dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from * until FPtr remains, FPdc around FPtr, ch1, slst to beginning standing dc
[4 3dc-V-st, 8FPdc, 4 ch1 spc]

Round 38:
Repeat Round 26

Hand Ribbing

Round 39Tranquil Waves Arm Warmer Hand Ribbing Detail | Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™
Ch1, sc in same ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next dc, sc in next FPdc, sc in next dc, sc in ch1 spc of v-st, skp next dc, sc in next FPdc, sc in next dc, sc in next dc,
*sc in ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next dc, sc in next FPdc, sc in next dc, sc in ch1 spc of v-st, skp next dc, sc in next FPdc, sc in next dc, sc in next dc,
Rpt from *, slst to beginning sc
[32 sc]

Round 40
Ch1, *BPhdc around next post, FPhdc around next post,
Rpt from *, slst to beginning ch1
<Note: The last FPhdc goes around the post where the first and last fsc is joined together.  If you do not sew in the beginning tail to the last fsc before starting Row 1, it may look like there are 2 posts remaining.>
[16 BPhdc, 16 FPhdc]

Round 41
<Note: If you find it difficult to start without a ch1, go ahead and make a ch1, otherwise, you can actually go straight into the post stitches>
*BPhdc around BPhdc, FPhdc around FPhdc
Rpt from *, slst join to beginning BPhdc
[16 BPhdc, 16 FPhdc]

Round 42
Repeat Roound 41
[16 BPhdc, 16 FPhdc]

Finishing

Round 43
Reverse sc (crab stitch) around, cut yarn

Weave in Ends


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  3 Responses to “Tranquil Waves Arm Warmer – Teen to Adult (s) – Free Crochet Pattern”

  1. Love the gloves! Sure wish I could see pictures of the rows,, having troubles with row14…

  2. I cannot wait to try out this pattern. These fingerless gloves are gorgeous! I plan to make a pair for my sister, and really hope they fit her because she is super skinny.

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