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Mar 292014
 

~ Tranquil Waves Underarm Purse ~

Free Crochet Pattern

When I think of the Spring near the ocean, I imagine the calm, white, sandy beach with tranquil waves at sunset.  While I am not much of a purse user, I do so love yarn and book totes that fit an occasional diaper or two.  This free crochet pattern series with the Tranquil Waves stitch will include your usual accessories suspects, and then some.  For now, you can enjoy this fantastic purse while honing in on your crochet stitches/tricks.

Tranquil Waves Underarm Purse | The Crochet Lounge™ Free Crochet Purse Pattern

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Following the gauge, the purse will turn out to be about 9.5″ Square.  You are welcome to line it with fabric or use store purchased handles.  A few options will be presented to you when it comes time :)

I’ve seen a lot of crochet purses/handbags, but have stayed away from making my own.  When I encountered this stitch pattern, it called my name (ask other designers, they know what I’m talking about – not to deter from the fact that we’re all just a tad bit crazy);  I knew it was a purse and much much more.  A week later, this Mystery Crochet Along was born and the purse sits pretty before you.

Come join and share your creations with The Crochet Lounge™ fans on

Facebook Social Icon | The Crochet Lounge | Star Google Plus Social Icon | The Crochet LoungeTwitter Social Icon | The Crochet LoungePinterest Social Icon | The Crochet LoungeYouTube Social Icon | The Crochet Lounge

and hundreds of thousands directly via The Crochet Lounge website, click and connect with me!  We look forward to seeing Your Creations!

Materials

    • One Skein of Bernat Mosaic or 209-300yds of worsted weight yarn
    • H-8 (5mm), I-9 (5.5mm), J-10 (6mm) Hook (whatever it takes to obtain gauge)
    • Tapestry Needle
    • Scissors
    • Any other accessories you would like to use, e.g. fabric lining, button closure, store bought handles

Sizing:

One Size fits most Child – Adult.  It will be more like a tote on a 5yo and an underarm purse on an adult

Stitches

Yarn over (yo) – wrap yarn over hook

Chain (ch) – yo, pull through loop on hook

Foundation single crochet (fsc) ch2, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)*insert hook into the foundation chain just created, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)Repeat from * until total fsc completed

Slip Stitch (slst) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw through stitch and loop on hook

Single crochet (sc) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2

Double Crochet (dc) – yo, insert hook in indicated st (stitch), yo draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2 loops (1 loop on hook)

Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc) - yo, insert hook from front to back to front from the right side around to the left side of the indicated post (Lefties do the opposite from left to right), yo draw up a loop, , yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2
Video tutorial by Crochet Cabana: http://youtu.be/EwwCBNQRVvI?t=25s

Standing Double Crochet (standing dc)-  This stitch replaces the ch3 start so you have a cleaner look on your piece (in fact, the starting stitch will almsot be undetectable) Video tutorial by Mooglyblog: http://youtu.be/aduDzuchP6c?t=53s

Special Stitches

V-Stitch (V-st) - (dc, ch1, dc) in indicated stitch

2 Double Crochet V-Stitch (2dc-Vst) - (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in indicated stitch

3 Double Crochet V-Stitch (3dc-V-st) - (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in indicated stitch

V-st in 3dc-V-st - V-st in ch1 spc of indicated 3dc-V-st

3dc-V-st in 3dc-V-st  - (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in ch1 spc of previous round’s 3dc-V-st

3dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st  - (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in ch1 spc of previous round’s 2dc-V-st

Gauge:

4″ x 4″ swatch:
Stitch pattern ch15, sc second st from hook, sc in each st across [14sc ]
*Ch1, turn, sc in each st across, Rpt for a total of 16 sc rowssc = 1/4″ row height

hdc = 1/2″ row height
dc = 3/4″ row height 

Pattern:Tranquil Waves Underarm Purse Close Up | The Crochet Lounge™ Free Crochet Purse Pattern

FSC 37

Round 1:
Ch1, 2sc in same fsc space, sc in each of the next 35 fsc, 5sc in the last fsc, rotate the work clockwise (counter-clockwise for lefties), sc in each of the next 35 fsc, 3sc in the same fsc you started Round 1, slst join to the first sc
[80 sc]

Round 2:
Standing dc or ch3 start,
*skp 3 sc, 3dc-V-st in next sc, skp 3 sc, dc in next sc, ch1, skp next sc, dc in next sc
Rpt from * until one sc remaining, slst to beginning dc

Round 3:
Slst around the post of the beginning dc of Round 2, standing dc (this acts as the first FPdc),
*3dc-V-st in next 3dc-V-st, FPdc in next dc, ch1, FPdc in next dc
Rpt from * until last dc, FPdc in next dc, ch1, slst join to beginning FPdc

Round 4:
Standing dc, dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join ,
*FPdc around FPdc, V-st in 3dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in ch1 spc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 2dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc

Round 5:
Standing dc, 2dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join ,
*FPdc around FPdc, ch1, skp V-st, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc

Round 6:
Standing dc, 2dc in same ch1 spc as the slst join (Note: This is half of a 3dc-V-st),
*FPdc around FPdc, ch1, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc-V-st in 3dc-V-st
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, 3dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc

Round 7:
Standing dc (Note: This is half of a V-st),
*FPdc around FPdc, 2dc-V-st in next ch1 spc, FPdc around FPdc, V-st in 3dc-V-st,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, dc in same ch1 spc worked as the beginning standing dc, ch1, slst to standing dc

Round 8:
Slst in next FPdc, FPslst around the same FPdc, Standing dc (this will give you a FPdc look at the beginning of your round),
*3dc-V-st in 2dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, skp V-st, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, slst to beginning standing dc

 Round 9:
FPslst around the standing dc of last round, Standing dc (this will give you the FPdc look at the beginning of the round),
*3dc-V-st in 3dc-V-st, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, FPdc around FPdc,
Rpt from * until last FPdc, FPdc around FPdc, ch1, slst to beginning standing dc

Rounds 10-15:
Repeat Rounds 4-9

Round 16-20:
Repeat Rounds 4-8

RS = Right Side
WS = Wrong Side

Strap

Row 1 (RS):
Slst in the next 3 dc, slst in ch1 spc, slst in next 3 dc
Working in Round 19 (2 rounds below for stability),
sc in the last dc of the 2dc-V-st, sc in the FPdc, 2sc in ch1spc of V-st, sc first dc of next 2dc-V-st, sc in next dc of 2dc-V-st
[6sc]

Row 2 (WS):
Ch1, turn, sc in each sc across
[6sc]

 Row 3 (RS) – odd # row of your choosing (RS):
Repeat Row 2
[6sc]

~~~~~~~

Join and ending to comeTo join the strap to the other side of your underarm purse…
Ch1, turn, sc in each sc across (yes, I tricked you to end on an even # row, but you do need to hook through to the RS
[6sc]

With the purse that has strap attached side facing you, fold your strap over in half – make sure there is no twist.Turn the purse and the unattached strap over.

The strap placement on this side of the purse will be identical to the side you started on – right hand side between the first two 3dc-V-st (left hand side between the first two 3dc-V-st for lefties).

Once you have the strap lined up to where it should go, roll it over onto the purse so that the RS of the strap and the RS of the purse are facing.  You will hook from the inside of the bag through both the purse and the sc on the strap for this row.

Working from the inside of the purse in Round 19 (2 rounds below for stability) and through both layers,
sc in the last dc of the 2dc-V-st, sc in the FPdc, 2sc in ch1spc of V-st (insert each sc in an sc on the strap on t he second layer), sc first dc of next 2dc-V-st, sc in next dc of 2dc-V-st
[6sc]

 Edging:

Rotate your work so that you are working up the side of your strap
sc in each end of strap row

When  you reach where the strap and purse connects, rotate your work again so you are working into the top of Round 20
*slst in each dc of 3dc-V-st, sc in ch1 spc of 3dc-V-st, slst in next 3 dc of 3dc-V-st, skp FPdc, 2sc in ch1 spc, skp FPdc,
Rpt from * until you reach the other end of the strap, cut 6″ tail, fasten off

Turn purse over, start at the base of the unworked side of the strap RS facing

Slst attach new yarn

Repeat Edging

Hope you’ve enjoyed this free crochet pattern! Please add this to your Ravelry and help favorite it :)

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Mar 212014
 

The Crochet Lounge™ Top 20 Heart Centered Crochet Influencers 2014 Awards HeaderThe Crochet Lounge™ Top 20 Heart Centered Crochet Influencers 2014 Awards  - Kathryn Vercillo, Crochet Concupiscence

The Crochet Lounge™ Top 20 Heart Centered Crochet Influencers 2014 Awards - Kathryn Vercillo, Crochet ConcupiscenceKathryn Vercillo -
Crochet Concupiscence

Kathryn Vercillo is a professional blogger,
writer, 
crochet lover behind Crochet
Concupiscence, Crochet Saved My Life,
who regularly contributes online articles in a
multitude of genres, and has written books of
storytelling with crochet as a catalyst to inspire
others.

When Kathryn rediscovered the art of crochet
as an adult, she was going through a tough
time in life (depression + suicidal tendencies).
As crocheting among other things assisted her
in healing, it propelled her to reach out and
story-share with others so that she may pay it
forward helping others.  Her blog was born
to share her love for the art, and she dedicated
time to read and follow 300+ crochet blogs
to bring the best content curation to her
followers.

Visiting Kathryn’s blog is almost like walking
through a time warp from yarn bombs to
runway fashions to all things big and small.
Her contribution is truly amazing. 

There isn’t a popular social platform that
I have not found Kathryn’s great contributions,
and she does it with grace and a unique
voice.  She is known as the @CrochetBlogger
and I love her posts covering the vast category
of the fiber arts.

You can find Kathry on Facebook, G+,
Twitter, Sulia, InstagramPinterest and more!

With roughly 100k followers across major
platforms, you’d be missing out if you
don’t give these links a look :)

You can find Kathryn’s Crochet Saved My Life
book that contains her story, and the stories of
21 other women who came forth to share how
their hook played a major part in their personal
mental and physical healing process via the links
below in Kindle e-book format for $4.99 – $16.99.

Leave a message here or when you visit Kathryn :) <3  May you find inspiration and strength in her content curation and storytelling!

Feel free to share The Crochet Lounge™ Awards – Top 20 Heart Centered Crochet Influencers 2014 by linking or by using the button below on your blogs/social media.

The Crochet Lounge™

As always, come connect with The Crochet Lounge™ community by clicking one of these buttons and we can conjure up the next crafty piece together!

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Mar 132014
 

The Crochet Lounge™ Top 20 Heart Centered Crochet Influencers 2014 Awards HeaderThe Crochet Lounge™ Top 20 Heart Centered Crochet Influencers 2014 Awards - Tamara Kelly, Moogly for Consistency & Delivery

The Crochet Lounge™ Top 20 Heart Centered Crochet Influencers 2014 Awards - Tamara Kelly MooglyTamara Kelly – Moogly

Tamara Kelly is the face and voice
behind Moogly. Along with her
partner in world domination, Geoff,
behind the scenes tech/model
for the Moogly Men’s brand, they
bring phenominal content to you
every weekday.

Mooglians far and near recognize
the brand built by the empire on
Facebook, G+, Twitter, Sulia, Tumblr,
Pinterest and more!

Her persistence in the blogsphere
growing the Moogly brand from a
mommy blog to a crochet small
business selling finished objects to
the current evolution of sharing her
knowledge of crochet, knitting, and
yarny goodness (and of course, world
domination) is simply inspiring.

Tamara’s heart based track record
with Moogly can be described with 5
words – consistency and fabulous
content delivery.

Heart based? Yes! The content on
Moogly revolves around service
and serving Mooglians worldwide
in Tamara’s own unique way. She
continues to add new content and
patterns to share her love and joy
for the fiber arts.

The Crochet Lounge™ & Loungers
around the world salute Moogly for
her continuous contribution to the
crochet community (biased a bit)
and we are honored to present her
with The Crochet Lounge™ Top 20
Heart Centered Crochet Influencers
of 2014 Award. ♥

View these Moogly Round Up Extravaganza posts by clicking on the collages!

8 Dainty Scarves and Cowls for Women | Moogly Free Pattern Round-Up Extravaganza | The Crochet Lounge9 Fabulous Women's Accessories | Moogly Free Pattern Round-Up Extravaganza | The Crochet Lounge7 Purses, Bags & Clutches | Moogly Free Pattern Round-Up Extravaganza | The Crochet Lounge15 Fun & Free Patterns for Kids by Moogly Free Pattern Round-Up ExtravaganzaFabulous Baby Patterns Moogly Free Pattern Round-Up Extravaganza     TCL_260CirCSq_MooglyForTheHomeRoundUpPlaceholder

The Crochet Lounge™

Tamara & Moogly well deserves the accolades across the crochet world.  Share this post with your favorite crochet pages/groups/communities so they can enjoy her contributions as well!

As always, come connect with The Crochet Lounge™ community by clicking one of these buttons and we can conjure up the next crafty piece together!

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Feb 212014
 

~♥ Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses
Baby – Toddler Princess Tutu X♥X♥ ♥~

The Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses patterns are really taking a shape of their own!  The free crochet pattern series includes newborn-adult sized headband  and the Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses Infinity Scarf so far; they were so fun to make I had to have a set for myself! My Musical daughter will soon make her own set after seeing her mom and baby sister sporting the hearts.  Isn’t that exciting?Hugs & Kisses to you X♥X♥

Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses Newborn-Toddler Princess Tutu -- Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™

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Seeing the cutest headband on Tree^3, I couldn’t leave it as the only pattern in the series.  She is so stinkin’ cute I had to have a bottom to match.  Although I had veered away from making tutu items, this one sealed the deal.  If you have never worked with tulle or made a tutu, not to worry, your hook will help you through it all!

Come join and share your creations with The Crochet Lounge™ fans on

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and hundreds of thousands directly via The Crochet Lounge website, click and connect with me!  We look forward to seeing Your Creations!

Materials

    • Small amount of Worsted Weight yarn – I have used Red Heart with Love in the photos shown.
    • 6″ wide tulle rolls (single or multiple colors) 30-60yds depending on length, size, and fluffiness desired
      <Note: In the photo, I used roughly 50 yards of 2 colors combined hooking in the Fdc where round 1 is FPhdc only leaving all connected to BPhdc empty>
    • H-8 (5mm), I-9 (5.5mm), J-10 (6mm) Hook (whatever it takes to obtain gauge)
    • Stitch Marker
    • Tapestry Needle
    • Scissors

Sizing:

Hook & FO Sizing – this goes with gauge — it is very important to check gauge on a fitted item!

~17″+/43cm circumference newborn size- fsc 60
~18″+/45cm  circumference 0-3mo infant size - fsc 64
~19″+/45.5cm  circumference 3-9mo infant size - fsc 68
~20″+/50cm circumference 12-18mo – fsc 72
~21″+/53cm circumference 24mo – fsc 76

<Note: Since post stitches make the pattern stretchy, and the puff hearts allow stretch as well, with each sizing, you can actually stretch it enough to fit 1.5-2″ up, which means you can get a lot of wear out of a single sizing. ex. My 20mo fits in ~18″+ stretched written w/o stretch for 0-3mo>

Stitches (sts)& Abbreviations

Yarn over (yo) – wrap yarn over hook

Chain (ch) – yo, pull through loop on hook

Foundation double crochet (fdc) – ch2, yo, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2, yo draw through 2 (this completes the double crochet)
*yo, insert hook into the foundation chain just created, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2, yo draw through 2 (this completes the double crochet)
Repeat from * until total fdc completed

Slip Stitch (slst) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw through stitch and loop on hook

Single crochet (sc) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2

Half double crochet (hdc) – yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook

Puff stitch - (yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop) 4 times, yo draw through all 9 loops on hook

Puff heart –(puff stitch, ch1, puff stitch) in the indicated stitch 

Gauge:

4″ x 4″ swatch:
Stitch pattern ch15, sc second st from hook, sc in each st across [14sc ]
*Ch1, turn, sc in each st across, Rpt for a total of 16 sc rowssc = 1/4″ row height

hdc = 1/2″ row height
dc = 3/4″ row height 

Pattern:

Main Color (MC) – White
Contrast Color (CC) – Pink
<Note:  Beginning fsc and end of round counts are currently geared towards a 16″+ 6-18mo sizing depending on the child’s head circumference.  Ignore these counts if you are starting with a different foundation stitch count.>
With a 6” tail (15cm)

Fdc 60, slst join to beginning fsc (or Ch60, slst join to beginning ch, ch1, dc in same st, dc in each ch around, slst join to beginning sc)
Sew beginning tail to properly join the bottom of the fsc into the ring
[60 sc]
<Note: you can also do this at the end, but I have found that when working with post stitches in the next round, it is easier with the foundation round completed>
Continue with crocheting yarn

Round 1:
ch1, *FPhdc in next fsc, BPhdc in next fsc,
Rpt from *, slst join to beginning FPhdc
[30 FPhdc, 30 BPhdc]

With CC
Round 2:

Slst in a BPhdc, ch1, Puff Heart in same st, ch1, *skp next 3 st, Puff Heart in next BPhdc, ch1,
Rpt from *, slst join to top of first puff st of beginning puff heart
Break yarn, weave in ends
[15 Puff Hearts]

With MC
Round 3:
Slst in ch1 spc of beginning Puff Heart in Round 2, ch1, sc in same spc (beginning sc made), ch1, skp next 2 st in Round 1, dc in next st in Round 1, ch1, dc in first skipped stitch in Round 1 to make the criss-cross, ch1,
*sc in center of next puff heart, ch1, skp next 2 st in Round 1, dc in next st in Round 1, ch1, dc in first skipped stitch in Round 1 to make the criss-cross, ch1,
Rpt from * until end of round, slst to beginning sc
Break yarn, weave in ends
[15 sc, 15 dc cross-st]
<Note: this round is worked in the ch1 spc in the center of puff hearts in round 2 and in skp st from Round 1>

With CC
Round 4:
Slst in ch1 spc of a dc cross st, Puff Heart in same spc, ch1, *Puff Heart in next dc cross st, ch1,
Rpt from * around, slst join to top of first puff st of beginning Puff Heart
Break yarn, weave in ends
<Note: All puff hearts in this round are staggered from the hearts in round 2 and worked in the ch1 spc of each dc cross st>
[15 Puff Hearts]

With MC

Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses Infinity Scarf Round 12 SC Placement -- Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™ For demonstration purposes, this is not the scarf in its entirety and only demonstrates the sc placements represented by the X symbol

Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses Princess Tutu Round 6  SC Placement — Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™


Round 5:
Slst in ch1 spc of any Puff Heart of Round 4, ch1, sc in same spc, ch1, working 2 rows below, skp next ch1 and sc, dc into next dc above the left half of next puff heart in row 3,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc above the right half of the next puff heart>
ch1, dc in previously skp right half of puff heart, ch1,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc previously skp on top of the left half of puff heart>
*sc in center of next puff heart, ch1, working 2 rows below, skp next ch1 and sc, dc into next dc above the left half of next puff heart in row 3,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc above the right half of the next puff heart>
ch1, dc in previously skp right half of puff heart, ch1,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc previously skp on top of the left half of puff heart>
Rpt from *, slst to beginning sc
[15 sc, 15 dc cross-st]
<Note: this round is worked in the ch1 spc in the center of puff hearts in round 4 and in ch1 spcs above each puff heart>

Round 6:
Ch1, sc in same sc spc, sc in next ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc,
*sc in next sc, sc in next ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc,
Rpt from *, slst join to beginning sc
<Note: You are skipping all dc stitches in this round and working sc in every sc and in every ch1 spc>
[60 sc]

Round 7:
Ch1, *FPhdc around next post, BPhdc around next post,
Rpt from *, slst join to beginning FPhdc
Break yarn, weave in ends
[15 FPhdc, 15 BPhdc]

Take your rolls of tulle, unroll and measure the baby’s waist to ankle area or however long you desire the tutu to be, then double the length before you cut.  Measure out and cut the rest of the tulle you think you’ll need (I used about 50yards for my 20mo’s tutu).  Take 2 strips of the tulle and fold it in half, insert your hook from one side of an FDC to the other that has Round1 FPhdc (they will be raised compared to the BPhdc), put the center of the tulle over the hook and draw the loop through the post, put down your hook, reach through the loop of tulle and pull the tulle tail through to secure it around the post.  Go all the way around, and if you would like more fluff, you can also attach tulle from the inside of the tutu hugs & kisses ring of the tutu using the BPhdc FDC posts.

Hope you’ve enjoyed this free crochet pattern! Come share on social media and add it to your Ravelry Project list so it can be featured! :D

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Feb 142014
 

Pay It Forward Friday Week #3

Hey, hey Loungers, this is “e” @ The Crochet Lounge™ with Tree^3 and today is Valentine’s Day 2014.  We are bringing you a V-Day + Pay It Forward Friday special today with a pom-pom attached to the Eternal Love Summer Kerchief ♥ (head and neck kerchief convertible pattern – or a toddler shrug – thought up by Jen of Louden Farms).

For Pay It Forward Friday today, I wanted to inspire you into action this next week to make ONE beanie (or more) for the Beanies for Bravery project held by Snappy-Tots.  You will be seeing Heidi and I via video (right Heidi? ;) ) in a few weeks – and we’d love the surge of BFB received by her to be the topic! ♥

Really quick, and a must – guidelines must be followed in order for the beanies to be send-able so, run like the wind, be swift in your black and dark brown yarn purchase and your hooking, add a note and off it goes!

Guidelines:

        • Worsted weight/bulky yarn (3.5oz/100g) in SOLID Dark Brown or Black – no variegated yarns please
        • Any pattern – I used the Beanies for Bravery by Snappy-Tots (BFB pattern)
        • 21″-23″circumference (this means if you are making a top-down beanie, you would stop increasing between 6.7″ – 7.3″ circle anything outside of this range would be too big or too small for this project and will not be sent)
        • 8.5″ – 10″ hat depth
        • Small note w/o your personal identifiable information – it is about the soldiers ;)

Please read Heidi’s BFB page carefully each time before you make and send.  She will be keeping all information updated!

Come back and share with us what you did for Pay It Forward Friday!

Pay It Forward Friday Week 3 - Happy Valentine's Day & Beanies for Bravery by Snappy-Tots | The Crochet Lounge™

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We look forward to seeing you inspiring others!

Feb 122014
 

~♥ Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses Infinity Scarf X♥X♥ ♥~

Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses Infinity Scarf -- Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™After creating the infinity scarf MCAL, I doubled back to make the Eternal Love Headband free crochet pattern in my size and made it with matching border color to my scarf. I simply LOVE it, and now my Music child also wants a set :)  She managed to love just the wrist warmers and held off when her little sister had a headband and matching Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses Newborn-Toddler Princess Tutu made, but now she wants one of EVERYTHING! Ha.  Isn’t it great we can teach the wee ones to hook along side us? :D

I am guessing that the wrist warmers with optional ruffles will be published next along with the tutus!  Come join us and share your creations with The Crochet Lounge™ fans on

Facebook Social Icon | The Crochet Lounge | Star Google Plus Social Icon | The Crochet LoungeTwitter Social Icon | The Crochet LoungePinterest Social Icon | The Crochet LoungeYouTube Social Icon | The Crochet Lounge♥!

and hundreds of thousands directly via The Crochet Lounge website, click and connect with me!  We look forward to seeing Your Creations!

MaterialsEternal Love Hugs & Kisses Infinity Scarf Close Up -- Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™

    • Worsted Weight Yarn in 3 colors – I am using Red Heart With Love
    • Border color
    • Main Color
    • Contrast Color
    • J-10 (6mm) Hook (or whatever hook size it takes to obtain gauge)
    • Stitch Marker (Not necessary, but I highly recommend it)
    • Tapestry Needle
    • Scissors

Sizing:

One Size fits all Child-Adults

Stitches (sts) & Abbreviations

Space (spc) - space

Yarn over (yo) – wrap yarn over hook

Chain (ch) – yo, pull through loop on hook

Foundation single crochet (fsc) – ch2, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)
*insert hook into the foundation chain just created, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)
Repeat from * until total fsc completed

Slip Stitch (slst) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw through stitch and loop on hook

Single crochet (sc) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2

Half double crochet (hdc) - yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook

Double Crochet (dc) – yo, insert hook in indicated st (stitch), yo draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2 loops (1 loop on hook)

Puff stitch - (yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop) 4 times, yo draw through all 9 loops on hook

Puff heart – (puff stitch, ch1, puff stitch) in the indicated stitch

Dc Cross Stitch (dc cross st) - skp next 3 st 2 rounds below, dc in next st, ch1, dc in first skipped st
<Note: This definition only applies to the first round of DC Cross Stitch>

 

Gauge:

4″ x 4″ swatch:
Stitch pattern ch15, sc second st from hook, sc in each st across [14sc ]
*Ch1, turn, sc in each st across, Rpt for a total of 16 sc rows
<Note: 3.5 st in every inch>

sc = 1/4″ row height
hdc = 1/2″ row height
dc = 3/4″ row height
<Note: Row Height is of little importance in this pattern – you can gauge it to your personal taste>

 

Pattern:

My colors of choice:
Main Color (MC) – White
Contrast Color (CC) – Pink
Border Color (BC) – Purple

<Note:  Beginning fsc gears towards a 51.4″ resulting ring.  It is alright for yours to be around the 60″ range, but may be too long if it is longer :) >

With a 6” tail (15cm) & Border Color (BC)

Fsc 180, slst join to beginning fsc (or Ch 180, slst join to beginning ch, ch1, sc in same st, sc in each ch around, slst join to beginning sc)
Sew beginning tail to properly join the bottom of the fsc into the ring
<Note: you can also do this at the end, but I have found that when working with post stitches in the next round, it is easier with the foundation round completed>
[180 Fsc]

Continue with BC
Round 1:
Standing Double Crochet (or ch 3), dc in each fsc around, slst join to top of Standing Double Crochet (or top of beginning ch3)
Break yarn, weave in ends
[180 dc]

With CC
Round 2:

Slst in a dc, ch1, Puff Heart in same st, ch1, *skp next 3 dc, Puff Heart in next dc, ch1,
Rpt from *, slst join to top of first puff st of beginning puff heart
Break yarn, weave in ends
[45 Puff Hearts]

With MC
Round 3:

Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses Infinity Scarf Round 3 Demystified -- Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™

What in the world does Round 3 stitch placement mean?!? To clarify with Cathy S.’s photo, since she used 3 different colors off the bat, you can really see the stitching.
x = sc
o = ch1
T with slash = dc
so you are sc into the middle of the heart, ch1, dc into the space right before the next heart, ch1, dc into the very first space you skipped from the heart you started at, ch1, sc into the center of the next puff heart.
The red arrows here indicate skipped dc of round 1. While pattern calls for the dc round to be the same color as the border, it really is up to individual taste on color choices :)
If you have other questions, please feel free to send your close up photos and questions. We can explore them together!


Slst in ch1 spc of any Puff Heart in Round 2, ch1, sc in same spc (beginning sc made), ch1, skp next 2 st in Round 1, dc in next st in Round 1, ch1, dc in first skipped stitch in Round 1 to make the dc cross st (criss-cross, )ch1,
*sc in center of next puff heart, ch1, skp next 2 st in Round 1, dc in next st in Round 1, ch1, dc in first skipped stitch in Round 1 to make the criss-cross, ch1,
Rpt from * until end of round, slst to beginning sc
Break yarn, weave in ends
[45 sc, 45 dc cross-st]
<Note: this round is worked in the ch1 spc in the center of puff hearts in round 2 and in skp st from Round 1>

With CC
Round 4:
Slst in ch1 spc of a dc cross st, Puff Heart in same spc, ch1, *Puff Heart in next dc cross st, ch1,
Rpt from * around, slst join to top of first puff st of beginning Puff Heart
Break yarn, weave in ends
<Note: All puff hearts in this round are staggered from the hearts in round 2 and worked in the ch1 spc of each dc cross st>
[45 Puff Hearts]

Round 5:
Slst in ch1 spc of any Puff Heart of Round 4, ch1, sc in same spc, ch1, working 2 rows below, skp next ch1 and sc, dc into next ch1 spc above the left half of next puff heart in row 3,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc above the right half of the next puff heart>
ch1, dc in previously skp right half of puff heart, ch1,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc previously skp on top of the left half of puff heart>
*sc in center of next puff heart, ch1, working 2 rows below, skp next ch1 and sc, dc into next ch1 spc above the left half of next puff heart in row 3,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc above the right half of the next puff heart>
ch1, dc in previously skp right half of puff heart, ch1,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc previously skp on top of the left half of puff heart>
Rpt from *, slst to beginning sc
[45 sc, 45 dc cross-st]
<Note: this round is worked in the ch1 spc in the center of puff hearts in round 4 and in ch1 spcs above each puff heart>

WithBCEternal Love Hugs & Kisses Infinity Scarf -- Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™
Round 6:
Slst in ch1 spc of a dc cross st, Puff Heart in same spc, ch1, *Puff Heart in next dc cross st, ch1,
Rpt from * around, slst join to top of first puff st of beginning Puff Heart
Break yarn, weave in ends
<Note: This round of puff hearts marks the center round of your MCAL item.  If you wish your MCAL item t obe wider, repeat the previous two row color combinations one more time before moving onto Round 6 and beyond.>
[45 Puff Hearts]

With MC
Round 7:

Slst in ch1 spc of any Puff Heart of Round 4, ch1, sc in same spc, ch1, working 2 rows below, skp next ch1 and sc, dc into next dc above the left half of next puff heart 2 rounds below,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc above the right half of the next puff heart>
ch1, dc in previously skp right half of puff heart, ch1,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc previously skp on top of the left half of puff heart>
*sc in center of next puff heart, ch1, working 2 rows below, skp next ch1 and sc, dc into next dc above the left half of next puff heart 2 rounds below,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc above the right half of the next puff heart>
ch1, dc in previously skp right half of puff heart, ch1,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc previously skp on top of the left half of puff heart>
Rpt from *, slst to beginning sc
[45 sc, 45 dc cross-st]
<Note: this round is worked in the ch1 spc in the center of puff hearts in round 4 and in ch1 spcs above each puff heart>

With CC
Round 8: 

Repeat Round 6
<Note: This round is done in CC>

With MC
Round 9:

Repeat Round 7

Round 10-11: 
Repeat Rounds 8 & 9
<Note: If you had elected to add another round of hearts in MC before proceeding to Round 6, you will want to add on another 2 rounds here in corresponding colors as well.>

WithBC
Round 12:

Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses Infinity Scarf Round 12 SC Placement -- Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™ For demonstration purposes, this is not the scarf in its entirety and only demonstrates the sc placements represented by the X symbol

Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses Infinity Scarf Round 12 SC Placement — Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™
For demonstration purposes, this is not the scarf in its entirety and only demonstrates the sc placements represented by the X symbol

Slst in any sc of Round 11, ch1, sc in same sc, sc in ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc,
*sc in next sc, sc in next ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc,
Rpt from *, slst join to beginning sc
<Note: You are skipping all dc stitches in this round and working sc in every sc and in every ch1 spc>
[180 sc]

Round 13:
Standing dc (or ch3 start), dc in each sc around, slst to standing dc (or top ch of beginning ch3)
[180 dc]

How did you do?  How do you like it? There’s 3 more days left to make another or spend the next few days making the matching items!  Please come show off your finished items for the world to see! :) http://facebook.com/TheCrochetLounge or https://plus.google.com/communities/105170638473085181440 or tweet to @crochetlounge

Project Demo Wear & Blooper Reel

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Ravel This!

Feb 072014
 

~♥ Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses Headband X♥X♥ ♥~

Eternal Love Hugs & Kisses Headband -- Free Crochet Pattern | The Crochet Lounge™Did you enjoy the Eternal Love Slouch – Reversible Fall/Winter hat pattern?  I loved it and simply couldn’t resist having Spring/Summer pattern to go along with in the series!  Plus, what’s more exciting is the Hugs & Kisses are just that! X♥X♥.  This is the first of many The Crochet Lounge™ free crochet headband patterns to come, and so far, my favorite headband patterns around.  I foresee many, many more patterns in this series with the wrist warmers, infinity scarf, and beanie next.
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Materials

    • Small amount of Worsted Weight yarn – I have used Red Heart with Love in the photos shown.
    • H-8 (5mm), I-9 (5.5mm), J-10 (6mm) Hook (whatever it takes to obtain gauge)
    • Stitch Marker
    • Tapestry Needle
    • Scissors

Sizing:

Pattern count is currently only written for 12-24mo sizing.  I will work up the child/adult sizing end of round counts this weekend.  Meanwhile, here are the starting fsc numbers for the smaller/larger sizes.

Hook & FO Sizing – this goes with gauge — it is very important to check gauge on a fitted item!
~13″+ circumference newborn size – fsc 48
~14″+ circumference 0-3mo infant size – fsc 52
~16″+ circumference 3-6mo infant size – fsc 56
~17″+ circumference 6-12mo infant size – fsc 60
~18″+  circumference 12mo-18mo toddler size – fsc 64
~19″+ circumference 3yo-10yo size – fsc 68
~20″+ circumference 10-teen size – fsc 72
~21″+ circumference small adult size – fsc 76
~22″+ circumference medium/large adult size – fsc 80

Stitches (sts) & Abbreviations

Yarn over (yo) – wrap yarn over hook

Chain (ch) – yo, pull through loop on hook

Foundation single crochet (fsc) – ch2, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)
*insert hook into the foundation chain just created, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)
Repeat from * until total fsc completed

Slip Stitch (slst) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw through stitch and loop on hook

Single crochet (sc) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2

Half double crochet (hdc) – yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook

Puff stitch - (yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop) 4 times, yo draw through all 9 loops on hook

Puff heart –(puff stitch, ch1, puff stitch) in the indicated stitch

 

Gauge:

4″ x 4″ swatch:
Stitch pattern ch15, sc second st from hook, sc in each st across [14sc ]
*Ch1, turn, sc in each st across, Rpt for a total of 16 sc rows

sc = 1/4″ row height
hdc = 1/2″ row height
dc = 3/4″ row height

 

Pattern:

Main Color (MC) – White
Contrast Color (CC) – Pink

<Note:  Beginning fsc and end of round counts are currently geared towards a 16″+ 6-18mo sizing depending on the child’s head circumference.  Ignore these counts if you are starting with a different foundation stitch count.>

With a 6” tail (15cm)

Fsc 60, slst join to beginning fsc (or Ch60, slst join to beginning ch, ch1, sc in same st, sc in each ch around, slst join to beginning sc)
Sew beginning tail to properly join the bottom of the fsc into the ring
[60 sc]
<Note: you can also do this at the end, but I have found that when working with post stitches in the next round, it is easier with the foundation round completed>

Continue with crocheting yarn
Round 1:
ch1, *FPhdc in next fsc, BPhdc in next fsc,
Rpt from *, slst join to beginning FPhdc
[30 FPhdc, 30 BPhdc]

With CC
Round 2:

Slst in a BPhdc, ch1, Puff Heart in same st, ch1, *skp next 3 st, Puff Heart in next BPhdc, ch1,
Rpt from *, slst join to top of first puff st of beginning puff heart
Break yarn, weave in ends
[15 Puff Hearts]

With MC
Round 3:
Slst in ch1 spc of beginning Puff Heart in Round 2, ch1, sc in same spc (beginning sc made), ch1, skp next 2 st in Round 1, dc in next st in Round 1, ch1, dc in first skipped stitch in Round 1 to make the criss-cross, ch1,
*sc in center of next puff heart, ch1, skp next 2 st in Round 1, dc in next st in Round 1, ch1, dc in first skipped stitch in Round 1 to make the criss-cross, ch1,
Rpt from * until end of round, slst to beginning sc
Break yarn, weave in ends
[15 sc, 15 dc cross-st]
<Note: this round is worked in the ch1 spc in the center of puff hearts in round 2 and in skp st from Round 1>

With CC
Round 4:
Slst in ch1 spc of a dc cross st, Puff Heart in same spc, ch1, *Puff Heart in next dc cross st, ch1,
Rpt from * around, slst join to top of first puff st of beginning Puff Heart
Break yarn, weave in ends
<Note: All puff hearts in this round are staggered from the hearts in round 2 and worked in the ch1 spc of each dc cross st>
[15 Puff Hearts]

With MC
Round 5:

Slst in ch1 spc of any Puff Heart of Round 4, ch1, sc in same spc, ch1, working 2 rows below, skp next ch1 and sc, dc into next dc above the left half of next puff heart in row 3,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc above the right half of the next puff heart>
ch1, dc in previously skp right half of puff heart, ch1,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc previously skp on top of the left half of puff heart>
*sc in center of next puff heart, ch1, working 2 rows below, skp next ch1 and sc, dc into next dc above the left half of next puff heart in row 3,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc above the right half of the next puff heart>
ch1, dc in previously skp right half of puff heart, ch1,
<Note: Lefties, you will be dc into the ch1 spc previously skp on top of the left half of puff heart>
Rpt from *, slst to beginning sc
[15 sc, 15 dc cross-st]
<Note: this round is worked in the ch1 spc in the center of puff hearts in round 4 and in ch1 spcs above each puff heart>

Round 6:
Ch1, sc in same sc spc, sc in next ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc,
*sc in next sc, sc in next ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc, skp next dc, sc in next ch1 spc,
Rpt from *, slst join to beginning sc
<Note: You are skipping all dc stitches in this round and working sc in every sc and in every ch1 spc>
[60 sc]

Round 7:
Ch1, *FPhdc around next post, BPhdc around next post,
Rpt from *, slst join to beginning FPhdc
Break yarn, weave in ends
[15 FPhdc, 15 BPhdc]

Hope you’ve enjoyed this free crochet headband pattern! Come share on social media and add it to your Ravelry Project list so it can be featured! :D

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Ravel This!

Feb 022014
 

Mariposas y Angeles Lace Beanie

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 Mariposas y Angeles Beanie | The Crochet Lounge™ Free Crochet Pattern

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When the Mariposas Beanie was created, I knew I would create a top down version simply because hats from the top-down are my love and favorite.  It hasn’t proven to be congruent with my hat pattern writing because the stitch pattern I want to create happens to be bottom up :D  With the Mariposas series, though, there is huge potential in both directions as you can see in the boot cuffs, wrist cuffs and (the unseen bolero), so I knew this free crochet pattern was going to be born at a later date.

While the Mariposas Boot Cuffs pattern was in testing, I already knew the series was going to include a scarf, infinity scarf, cowl, Mariposas BeanieMariposas Wrist Cuffs as well as a potential shawl, poncho, and lacy baby blanket, throw, afghan sizes.  It’s just a matter of WHICH pattern came next — but you all know this well, many a WIPs, right? :)  The latest scarf prototype being worked up seems to float my boat, so if the embellishments pan out, that shall come next in this series.

This all stemmed from the Mariposas Bolero pattern back in August that has yet to be fully tested and released — the bolero is sized XS – 5XL.  If you feel so inclined to make a matching bolero, please contact me via facebook or e-mail MariposasBolero@TheCrochetLounge.com

Materials

  • Worsted Weight yarn – Featured in Red Heart With Love
  • Size J hook
  • Solid colors really show off the stitch – also great for slow variegated yarns if you want the stitch pronounced

Gauge

8 Stitches & 6 Rows of FPhdc, BPhdc = 2 inches
Height of dc – 3/4″ or 1.905cm
Height of tr – 1″ or 2.54cm
<Note: It is important that gauge be matched on a fitted item such as a beanie! Watch your Golden Loop>

Golden Loop - after inserting your hook into an indicated stitch, the Golden Loop is the loop you yarn over and draw up.  The height of your row/round depends on how high you draw up the Golden Loop.  This matters greatly in gauge matching if you are needing to follow hook size and or have already dropped down in hook size and cannot obtain gauge.

If your golden loop is much longer, you will simply end up with a slouch hat, and you can fold up the brim for a 2-in-1 beanie/slouch.  If you work it up as a beanie, it can fit an 18mo toddler if brim is folded up, or an adult with the beanie as is.

Stitches Used

fsc, ch, sc, slst, dc, tr, V-st, 3dc-Fan, 7dc-Fan,  9tr-Fan

Foundation single crochet (fsc) – ch2, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)
*insert hook into the next foundation chain just created, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1, yo draw through 2
Repeat from * until total fsc completed

Yarn over (yo) – wrap yarn over hook

Chain (ch) -  yo (yarn over), pull through loop on hook

Single crochet (sc) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2

Single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, insert hook in next stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 3 loops on hook

Slip Stitch (slst) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw through stitch as well as the loop on hook

Half double crochet (hdc) - yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook


Front Post hdc (FPhdc) - yo, insert hook from front to back to front from the right side around to the left side of the indicated post (Lefties do the opposite from left to right), yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook

Back Post hdc (BPhdc) – yo, insert hook from back to front to back from the right side around to the left side of the indicated post (Lefties do the opposite from left to right), yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook

Double Crochet (dc) – yo, insert hook in indicated st (stitch), yo draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2 loops (1 loop on hook)

Double Crochet 2 together (dc2tog) – yo, insert hook in first indicated st (stitch), yo draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops, yo insert hook in second indicated st, yo draw up a loop(4loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops (3 loops on hook),  yo draw through remaining 3 loops on hook <Note: You are basically doing half of a dc in the first stitch, then half of a dc in the next stitch before finishing the two dc at the same time in the last yo draw through remaining loops on hook>

Special Stitches

Magic Circle The Crochet Lounge™ way –

Chainless Starting Double Crochet (Standing dc) - 

V-Stitch (V-st) - (dc, ch2, dc) in indicated stitch

V1-Stitch (V1-st) - (dc, ch1, dc) in indicated stitch <Note: This is used in rounds 12 to 15>

3dc-Fan - 3dc in indicated stitch

7dc-Fan - 7dc in indicated stitch

9tr-Fan - 9tr in indicated stitch

V-St in V-St - V-St in next V-St

V1-St in V1-St - V1-St in next V1-St

V-st in 3dc-Fan - V-st in middle dc of 3dc-Fan

V1-st in 7dc-Fan V1-st in 4th dc of 7dc-Fan (center dc of the 7dc-Fan)

7dc-Fan in V-st - 7dc in ch2 spc of indicated V-st

9tr-Fan in V-st - 9tr in ch2 spc of indicated V-st

V-st in 9tr-Fan - V-st in 5th tr of 9tr-Fan (center tr of the 9tr-Fan)

Invisible sc Join The Crochet Lounge™ Way – in the last stitch of the round, insert hook into the last stitch, draw up a loop, insert hook into the back loop only (blo) of the first stitch in the round, yo, draw up and through the loops on hook, leave a 6” tail, cut the yarn.  Insert hook through both loops of the second stitch of the round, yo with tail draw yarn through.  Insert hook into the front loop only (flo) of the last stitch of the round, draw tail through.  From wrong side of piece, insert hook through the same last stitch in the round under both loops, draw tail to the inside and fasten off

Pattern

Magic Circle
<Note: You can replace the magic circle with ch4 slst to 4th ch from hook to join.  This generally creates a larger gap/hole in the center.>

Round 1
Standing double crochet (or ch3), ch1, *dc in magic circle, ch1,
Rpt from * 5 more times, slst join to standing double crochet (or third ch of beginning ch3)
[7 dc, 7 ch1 spc]
<Note: The standing double crochet gives a cleaner look and eliminates being able to see the start of the rounds.>

Round 2
Standing double crochet (or ch3), ch1, *V1-St in next ch1 spc, ch1
Rpt from * 5 more times, dc in next ch1 spc, ch1, slst join to standing double crochet (or third ch of beginning ch3)
[7 V1-st, 7 ch1 spc between V1-st]

Round 3
Standing dc (or ch3), ch1, *2dc in next ch1 spc, ch1,
Rpt from * 12 more times, dc in next ch1 spc, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
[14 2dc-sets]
<Note: Standing dc at the beginning of the round counts as the second dc in one of the 14 2dc-sets>

Round 4
Standing dc (or ch3), 3dc in spc between next 2dc-set, *V1-st in spc between next 2dc-set, 3dc in spc between next 2dc set
Rpt from * 5 more times, dc in next ch1 spc, ch1, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: All stitches in this round is worked in the space between each of the 2dc-sets (between the posts). Ending dc, ch1, slst to Standing dc counts as a V1-st>
[7 V1-st, 7 3dc-Fan]

Round 5
Standing dc (or ch3), ch1, V-st in 3dc-Fan, ch1, *V-st in V1-st, ch1, V-st in 3dc-Fan, ch1,
Rpt from * 5 more times, dc in next V1-st, ch2, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: We have switched to regular V-st in this round.  Are you paying attention? ;) At this point, you can still press the circle flat, but it may have a very slight curve and that’s okay. last dc, ch2, slst to standing dc counts as a V-st>
[14 V-st]

Round 6
Slst to the ch2 spc of the next V-st, standing dc (or ch3), 6dc in same ch2 spc, V-st in next V-st, *7dc in next V-st, V-st in next V-st,
Rpt from * 5 more times, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: Standing dc, 6dc in same ch2 spc at the beginning of the round counts as the first 7dc-Fan.>
[7 V-st, 7 7dc-Fan]

Round 7
Slst in next 3 dc, standing dc (or ch3), ch2, dc in same dc, ch2, V-st in next V-st, *V-st in next 7dc-Fan, V-st in next V-st,
Rpt from * 5 more times, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: Beginning of the round starts in the center of 7dc-Fan of previous round and Standing dc, ch2, dc in same st start counts as the first V-st.>
[14 V-st]

Round 8
Slst into ch2 spc, standing dc(or ch3), ch2, dc in same ch2 spc, 9tr in next V-st, * V-st in V-st, 9tr-Fan in next V-st,
Rpt from *5 more times, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: Standing dc, ch2, dc in same ch2 spc at the beginning of the round counts as the first V-st>
[7 V-st, 7 9tr-Fan]

Round 9
Slst into ch2 spc, standing dc (or ch3), ch2, dc in same ch2 spc, ch2, V-st in next 9tr-Fan, *V-st in V-st, V-st in next 9tr-Fan,
Rpt from * 5 more times, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: Standing dc, ch2, dc in same st start counts as the first V-st>
[14 V-st]

Round 10
Slst into ch2 spc, ch4, 8tr in same ch2 spc, V-st in V-st, *9tr-Fan in next V-st, V-st in V-st,
Rpt from * 5 more times, slst join to 4th ch of beginning ch4
<Note: ch4 at beginning of the round counts as the first tr in 9tr-Fan>
[7 V-st, 7 9tr-Fan]

Round 11
Slst in next 4st to center of 9tr-Fan, standing dc (or ch3), ch2, dc in same tr, ch2, V-st in V-st, *V-st in 9tr-Fan, V-st in V-st,
Rpt from * 5 more times, slst join to standing dc (or third ch of beginning ch3)
<Note: Standing dc, ch2, dc in same tr at beginning of round counts as V-st.>
[14 V-st]

Round 12
Slst into ch2 spc of V-st, ch1, 2sc in same ch2 spc, 3sc in next ch2 spc, *2sc in V-st, 3sc in next ch2 spc,
Rpt from * 12 more times, slst to beginning sc
<Note: >
[70 sc]

Round 13
Ch1, *BPhdc in first 2 sc posts, FPhdc in next 3 sc posts,
Rpt from * 13 more times, slst join to beginning BPhdc
<Note: You are working 2BPhdc in each V-st section and 3FPhdc in the space between the V-st from Round 11.>
[28 BPhdc,  42FPhdc]

Round 14
Ch1, BPhdc in each BPhdc, FPhdc in each FPhdc throughout the round, slst join to beginning BPhdc
<Note: You are crocheting same stitch type into the same stitch from Round 13>
[28 BPhdc,  42FPhdc]

Round 15
Ch1, FPhdc in each BPhdc, BPhdc in each FPhdc throughout the round, slst join to beginning FPhdc

<Note: You are now creating the basket weave look by crocheting the opposite post stitch as the previous round>
[42 BPhdc,  28FPhdc]

Round 16
Ch1, FPhdc in each FPhdc, BPhdc in each BPhdc throughout the round, slst join to beginning FPhdc
<Note: You are crocheting same stitch type into the same stitch from Round 15>
[42 BPhdc,  28FPhdc] 

Round 17
Ch1, BPhdc in each FPhdc, FPhdc in each BPhdc throughout the round, slst join to beginning BPhdc
<Note: You are switching to the opposite post stitch in this round to finish the last set of basket weave>
[28 BPhdc,  42FPhdc] 

Round 18
Rpt Round 14
<Note: You are crocheting same stitch type into the same stitch from Round 17>
[28 BPhdc,  42FPhdc]

Weave in ends

I have seen some fantastic surface slip stitch work done at the brim portion highlighting the brim section — it can completely change your beanie style if you change the color of the brim and then frame it.  Try it, have a blast and come share with us what you’ve made :)

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 Ravelry Link to come soon:

Ravel This!
Ravel This!
Dec 272013
 
Mariposas Wrist Cuffs | The Crochet Lounge™ Free Crochet Pattern

Mariposas Wrist Cuffs – Free Crochet Pattern

Mariposas Wrist Cuffs | The Crochet Lounge™ Free Crochet Pattern

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After the Mariposas Boot Cuffs pattern debut, I knew there was going to be a matching Mariposas Beanie, wrist cuffs, and some form of neck wear to come in a short time-frame, and I was right.  I prefer to be inspired to hook by the hooks and yarn vs. under pressure – because I strongly believe that the energy of a person while creating ANYTHING will go into their final product whether it be their designs, their finished object, etc. and will be felt by others who are on the receiving end.

The force is strong with this stitch pattern ;)  Although the bolero has yet to make its way through the testing stages, its companions are moving along quickly.  Wrist cuffs have been on my list to ‘tackle’ since last year and when I finally was inspired to create these, I fell in love with the end product before they were hooked.

I was truly inspired when I went to Ravelry today and saw a note on Sandi76′s Mariposas Beanie (♥) that she’d only been crocheting FOR A MONTH.  She pattern tested the Mariposas Beanie and her stitching was impeccable.  If she can pattern test the written pattern, you can make this set of wrist cuffs/boot cuffs/beanie!

Sandi76 Mariposas Beanie | The Crochet Lounge™ Free Crochet Pattern

Materials

  • Worsted Weight yarn – Featured in Red Heart With Love 1 skein (enough to make wrist cuffs and a Mariposas Beanie with left over)
  • Any Size Hook to Obtain Gauge (I used a G/6 4.5mm hook)
  • Solid colors really show off the stitch – also great for slow variegated yarns if you want the stitch pronounced

Stitches Used

fsc, ch, sc, slst, dc, tr, V-st, 7dc-Fan

Foundation single crochet (fsc) – ch2, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 (this creates the next foundation 

chain), yo draw through 2 (this completes the single crochet)
*insert hook into the next foundation chain just created, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 1, yo draw through 2
Repeat from * until total fsc completed

Yarn over (yo) – wrap yarn over hook

Chain (ch) -  yo (yarn over), pull through loop on hook

Single crochet (sc) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through 2

Slip Stitch (slst) - insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw through stitch as well as the loop on hook

Half double crochet (hdc) - yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook

 

Front Post hdc (FPhdc) - yo, insert hook from front to back to front from the right side around to the left side of the indicated post (Lefties do the opposite

Back Post hdc (BPhdc) – yo, insert hook from back to front to back from the right side around to the left side of the indicated post (Lefties do the opposite from left to right), yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook from left to right), yo draw up a loop, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook

Double Crochet (dc) – yo, insert hook in indicated st (stitch), yo draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops, yo draw through 2 loops (1 loop on hook)

Treble Crochet (tr) – yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st (stitch), yo draw up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yo draw through remaining 2 loops on hook

Special Stitches

Chainless Starting Double Crochet (Standing dc) - 

V-Stitch (V-st) - (dc, ch2, dc) in indicated stitch

7dc-Fan - 7dc in indicated stitch

7dc in V-st - 7dc in ch2 spc of indicated V-st

9tr-Fan in V-st - 9tr in ch2 spc of indicated V-st

V-st in 7dc-Fan - V-st in 3rd dc of 7dc-Fan (center dc of the 7dc-Fan)

V-st in V-st - V-st in ch2 spc of indicated V-st

Picot - sc, ch3, slst in the sc just made at the beginning of the picot

GaugeMariposas Beanie & Wrist Cuffs Set - Free Crochet Patterns | The Crochet Lounge™

10 Stitches & 7 Rounds of ribbing in FPhdc, BPhdc + fsc = 2 inches
Height of dc – 5/8″ or 1.5875cm
Height of tr – 1″ or 2.54cm
<Note: It is okay to have a longer golden loop, which creates a higher stitch, but it will also make your cuff longer, so pay attention!>

Measurements

Cuff ribbing 6″ circumference by 2″ height – will stretch to average wrist size (If this feels snug for you, please feel free to up-size the hook you are using for the ribbing portion!  Same goes if you need a smaller size ribbing section, downsize the hook for that portion of the pattern.)

Total height from base of fsc to tip of picot on top of 9tr-Fan is 4.75″ or 12.065cm

Golden Loop - after inserting your hook into an indicated stitch, the Golden Loop is the loop you yarn over and draw up.  The height of your row/round depends on how high you draw up the Golden Loop.  This matters greatly in gauge matching if you are needing to follow hook size and or have already dropped down in hook size and cannot obtain gauge.

Pattern

Cuff Ribbing
fsc 30
, slst join to the first fsc being careful not to twist when you join
<Note: When joining fsc in the round, you must also sew the initial tail to the last stitch to form the full circle.
* You can also replace this with Ch30, slst join to the first ch, being careful not to twist when you join, ch1, sc in same st, sc in each ch around, slst to first sc.
* fsc is fantastic to learn because it provides a stretchier fabric vs. the rigid chain start when done>

Cuff Mariposas Lace Flare
Round 1

Ch1,
*BPhdc in next st, FPhdc in next st,
Rpt from *, slst join to first BPhdc
<Note: the last FPhdc goes around the joining st of the prev round and will cover over the beginning ch1 after join>
[15 FPhdc, 15 BPhdc]

Round 2
Ch1, BPhdc in BPhdc from slst join, FPhdc in FPhdc,
*BPhdc in BPhdc, FPhdc in FPhdc,
Rpt from *, slst join to first BPhdc
<Note: the last FPhdc goes around the joining st of the prev round and will cover over the beginning ch1 after join>
[15 FPhdc, 15 BPhdc]

Rounds 3-7 Rpt Round 2
[15 FPhdc, 15 BPhdc]

Round 8
Standing dc, ch2, dc into joining st of the prev round, skp 2 st,
*V-st in next st, skp 2 st,
Rpt from *, slst join to standing dc
<Note: Standing dc, ch2, dc at the beginning of the round counts as the first V-st>
[10 V-st]

Round 9
Slst into ch2 spc,
Standing dc, 6dc in same ch2 spc, V-st in next V-st,
*7dc-Fan in next V-st, V-st in next V-st,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to Standing dc
<Note: Standing dc plus 6dc counts as the first 7dc-Fan>
[5 V-st, 5 7dc-Fan]

Round 10
Slst in next 3 dc,
Standing dc, ch2, dc in same st as standing dc, ch2,  V-st in next V-st, ch2,
*V-st in next 7dc-Fan, ch2, V-st in next V-st, ch2,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to standing dc
<Note: Beginning of the round starts in the center dc of 7dc-Fan in previous round and beginning Standing dc, ch2 dc in same st counts as the first V-st>
[10 V-st]

Mariposas Wrist Cuffs Worn Flipped | The Crochet Lounge™ Free Crochet Pattern

Round 11
Slst into ch2 spc,
Standing dc, ch2, dc in same V-st, 9tr-Fan in next V-st,
*V-st in next V-st, 9tr-Fan in next V-st,
Rpt from *,
Slst join to standing dc
<Note: Standing dc, ch2, dc at the beginning of the round counts as the first V-st>
[5 V-st, 5 9tr-Fan]

Round 12
Picot into ch2 spc,
Slst in next 4 tr, picot in next tr, slst in next 4 tr,
*Picot in next V-st, slst in next 4tr, picot in next tr, slst in next 4tr
Rpt from *,
Slst join to sc of beginning picot, cut 6″ tail
<Note: Beginning of the round starts in the center of a V-st of previous round and no stitches are worked in the dc portions of the V-st — you are only working in the ch2 spc of the V-st plus each tr of the 9tr-Fan in this round>
[5 Picots in V-st, 5 Picots in 9tr-Fan]

Weave in ends

Make a second because you may want a matching cuff! ;)  You can wear them right side out and out of a jacket sleeve, or turn them inside out, so you can fold it up over a sweater or blouse and still have the right side of the stitches showing for a great look. ♥

 

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